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The Rough Guide to Cape Town, The Winelands and the Garden Route (Travel Guide eBook)

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"Discover Cape Town, the Winelands and the Garden Route with the most incisive and entertaining guidebook on the market. Whether you plan to admire the panoramic views from the top of Table Mountain, indulge on a wine estate tour or spot the Big Five in a wildlife reserve, this new edition of The Rough Guide to Cape Town, the Winelands and the Garden Route will show you ideal places to sleep, eat, drink and shop along the way.
Inside The Rough Guide to Cape Town, the Winelands and the Garden Route
- Independent, trusted reviews written in Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and insight, to help you get the most out of your visit, with options to suit every budget.
- Full-colour maps throughout - navigate Cape Town's city centre or find your way around Stellenbosch without needing to get online.
- Stunning, inspirational images
- Itineraries - carefully planned routes to help you organize your trip.
- Detailed coverage - whether off the beaten track or in more mainstream tourist destinations, this travel guide has in-depth practical advice for every step of the way. Areas covered include: the city centre; the V&A Waterfront; Robben Island; the Cape Flats; the Atlantic Seaboard; Stellenbosch; Paarl; Franschhoek; Somerset West; the Whale Coast; the Garden Route and Overberg Interior; Route 62 and the Little Karoo; Port Elizabeth and the private reserves. Attractions include: Table Mountain; Boulders Beach; Cape Point; Chapman's Peak Drive; De Hoop Nature Reserve; the wine estates; Tsitsikamma National Park; the Cango Caves; Addo Elephant Park.
- Basics - essential pre-departure practical information including getting there, local transport, health, the media, festivals, parks and wilderness areas, crime and personal safety and more.
- Listings chapters - from accommodation, food and drink to shopping and Cape Town for kids.
- Background information - a Contexts chapter devoted to history, music and books, plus a handy language section and glossary. Make the Most of Your Time on Earth with the Rough Guide to Cape Town, the Winelands and the Garden Route"

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Published 04 January 2018
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EAN13 9780241343845
Language English
Document size 28 MB

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INSIDE THIS BOOK START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES
INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, author highlights and more
BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information
THE CITY Comprehensive, neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to the city,
with full-colour maps featuring all the listings
LISTINGS Where to sleep, eat, drink and shop, plus all the best clubs and theatres
BEYOND THE CITY Covers the Winelands, the Whale Coast and the Overberg Interior,
Route 62 and the Little Karoo, the Garden Route and Addo Elephant National Park
CONTEXTS History, recommended books and music and a useful language section
TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 40 million
CITY PLAN Detailed street mapping for easy navigation travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing.
We’ve fl agged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a
special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the symbol
Cape Town, the Winelands & the Garden Route chapters
Robben 0 10
Island N7 N1 kilometres2
Kraaifontein
2 N1 POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Things Not To Miss” section, essential itineraries and 1
a unique pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy
FranschhoekStellenbosch
and perfect for short trips and weekend breaks.15
3 Cape TownTable
InternationalMountain NAirport(1087m)
5 N2
Hout 4
Bay
Somerset West
Muizenberg
False BayFish Hoek
Grabouw
Simon’s Town
Aberdeen
De Hoek6
Laingsburg
Willowmore
TABLE MOUNTAIN DIGITAL Choose from our easy-NATIONAL PARK
PaarlCAPE OF Worcester
CAPE Oudtshoorn to-use ebooks and great-value GOOD HOPE 18 1917
TOWNSECTION
15 Franschhoek Port Snapshots to read on your tablet,
KnysnaATLANTIC ElizabethMosselHermanus phone or e-reader.OCEAN Cape of Bay 0 100
Good Hope 16
kilometresINDIAN OCEANCape AgulhasCape of Good Hope
5 N1 The city centre Atlantic Seaboard The Garden Route
ROUGHGUIDES.COM Buy all our 6 O2 V&A Waterfront, Robben Island and The False Bay seaboard to Cape Point Route 62 and the Little Karoo
latest ebooks and get inspired L PDe Waterkant The Winelands Port Elizabeth, Addo and the
with travel features, quizzes M3 Table Mountain and the City Bowl The Whale Coast and Overberg private reserves
and more.4 Southern Suburbs and Cape Flats Interior
Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This sixth edition published January 2018
000-000_Cape_Town_InsideCover.indd 1 30/08/17 5:28 pmTHE ROUGH GUIDE TO
CAPE TOWN
THE WINELANDS &
THE GARDEN ROUTE
This sixth edition updated by
James Bainbridge and Barbara McCreaINTRODUCTION 3
INTRODUCTION 4
What to see7 Things not to miss 12
When to go8Itineraries 18
Author picks11
BASICS22
Getting there 23 The media 33
Entry requirements 24Festivals 34
Arrival 25 Parks, reserves and wilderness areas 35
Getting around 25 Crime and personal safety 37
Health30 Travel essentials39
THE CITY 44
1 The city centre 44 4 Southern Suburbs and Cape Flats 79
2 V&A Waterfront, Robben Island and 5 Atlantic Seaboard 91
De Waterkant 64
6 The False Bay seaboard to
3 Table Mountain and the City Bowl 72 Cape Point 99
LISTINGS 112
7Accommodation112 11 Shopping 140
8Eating121 12 Sports and outdoor activities 146
9Drinking and nightlife 130 13 LGBT Cape Town 151
10 The arts and flm 135 14 Cape Town for kids 154
OUT OF CITY 158
15 The Winelands 158 18 Route 62 and the Little Karoo 230
16 The Whale Coast and 19 Port Elizabeth, Addo and the private
Overberg Interior 176reserves 247
17 The Garden Route 195
CONTEXTS 259
History260Music 273
Books269Language276
SMALL PRINT& INDEX 280
CITY PLAN 289
OPPOSITE LION’S HEAD, CAPE TOWN PREVIOUS PAGE BEACH HUTS, MUIZENBERGThe Winelands, The Garden Route, The Little Karoo & The Whale Coast
4 INTRODUCTION Robben Island The Winelands & The KarooTable Bay
V&A
GREEN POINT Waterfront
M5
CapeSEA POINT N1Town
Signal Hill
WoodstockBANTRY BAY (350m)
PINELANDSCITY Salt River
N7CLIFTON CENTRE OBSERVATORY
N2 Observatory
LANGAMowbrayDevil's PeakCAMPS BAY Table Rosebank(1000m) N2
Mountain
Rondebosch(1087m)BAKOVEN
M3 RONDEBOSCH
Maclear’s
NewlandsBeacon
Cape TownClaremontKirstenbosch InternationalM7 GUGULETUBotanical Gardens Harfield Road Airport
KenilworthNEWLANDSTABLE MOUNTAIN N2
M5 NYANGAIntroduction to LLANDUDNO NATIONAL PARK R300
CONSTANTIA Wynberg CROSSROADSWorld
of Birds Wittebome
Sandy Bay Groot
Constantia PlumsteadCape Town Klein
Constantia
HOUT BAY CAPE FLATS
Steurhof
MITCHELLS
Dieprivierthe Winelands & the Garden Route M3 PLAINBuitenverwachting
Heathfield
The Sentinel M7
TOKAI(331m) RetreatFOREST
SteenbergCape Town is southern Africa’s most beautiful, most romantic and most
Steenberg
Chapman’s Peakvisited city. Its precolonial Khoikhoi inhabitants recognized its extraordinary Lakeside(238m)
NOORDHOEK False Bay
physical setting when they referred to Table Mountain, the city’s emblematic SILVERMINE
NATURE
Chapman's Bay RESERVElandmark, as Hoerikwaggo – the mountain in the sea. If the landscape Muizenberg
SUN
MUIZENBERGVALLEYdoesn’t take your breath away, its high-octane activities from paragliding to St James
ST JAMESMASIPHUMELELE Kalk Baykitesurfng should do the trick, and that’s before you’ve sampled the KOMMETJIE
Clovelly KALK BAY Seal Island
nightlife. Which isn’t to say Cape Town is just about adrenaline. Away from Fish Hoek
FISH HOEK
Sunny CoveOCEANthe thrills and pumping party scene, you’ll fnd a city boasting breathtaking
GlencairnVIEW
GLENCAIRNbeaches, rolling vineyards and fne museums – enough to keep you busy
False
Bayover an extended visit. Despite this, most visitors fnd the time to escape
SIMON’S TOWN
the city – to the Winelands, to sample South Africa’s celebrated wines, and Simon’s Town
SCARBOROUGH Boulders Beachfurther east along the Garden Route, whose draws include unparalleled
whale watching, crashing seascapes, dappled forests and lions, leopards
TABLE MOUNTAIN
NATIONAL PARKand elephants in the best game reserve in the southern half of the country.
Miller’s PointATLANTIC
Cape Town has a rich urban texture too, etched in its diverse architecture. In the suburbs, OCEAN
shimmering white Cape Dutch homesteads, rooted in seventeenth-century northern N
European traditions, characterize the grand estates of the Constantia Winelands; in the
SmitswinkelbaaiOlifantsbos TABLE MOUNTAINcity, Muslim slaves, freed in the nineteenth century, added their minarets to the centre’s
NATIONAL PARK
CAPE OF GOODskyline; and the English, who invaded and later freed these slaves, introduced Georgian HOPE SECTION
and Victorian buildings. In the tight terraces of the Bo-Kaap quarter and the tenements
of District Six, the coloured descendants of slaves evolved a unique, evocatively Bordjiesrif
Capetonian brand of jazz, which is well worth catching live. Indeed great sounds,
Buffels BayGifkommetjie
along with high standards of accommodation, smart restaurants, laidback cafés and
CAPE TOWN,
a vibrant gay scene, make visiting Cape Town a truly cosmopolitan experience. Cape Point WINELANDS &(238m)
0 5
GARDEN ROUTEkilometresABOVE V&A WATERFRONT Cape of Good Hope Cape Point
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The Winelands, The Garden Route, The Little Karoo & The Whale Coast
Robben Island The Winelands & The KarooTable Bay
V&A
GREEN POINT Waterfront
M5
CapeSEA POINT N1Town
Signal Hill
WoodstockBANTRY BAY (350m)
PINELANDSCITY Salt River
N7CLIFTON CENTRE OBSERVATORY
N2 Observatory
LANGAMowbrayDevil's PeakCAMPS BAY Table Rosebank(1000m) N2
Mountain
Rondebosch(1087m)BAKOVEN
M3 RONDEBOSCH
Maclear’s
NewlandsBeacon
Cape TownClaremontKirstenbosch InternationalM7 GUGULETUBotanical Gardens Harfield Road Airport
KenilworthNEWLANDSTABLE MOUNTAIN N2
M5 NYANGALLANDUDNO NATIONAL PARK R300
CONSTANTIA Wynberg CROSSROADSWorld
of Birds Wittebome
Sandy Bay Groot
Constantia Plumstead
Klein
Constantia
HOUT BAY CAPE FLATS
Steurhof
MITCHELLS
Dieprivier
M3 PLAINBuitenverwachting
Heathfield
The Sentinel M7
TOKAI(331m) RetreatFOREST
Steenberg
Steenberg
Chapman’s Peak
Lakeside(238m)
NOORDHOEK False Bay
SILVERMINE
NATURE
Chapman's Bay RESERVE Muizenberg
SUN
MUIZENBERGVALLEY
St James
ST JAMESMASIPHUMELELE Kalk Bay
KOMMETJIE
Clovelly KALK BAY Seal Island
Fish Hoek
FISH HOEK
Sunny CoveOCEAN
GlencairnVIEW
GLENCAIRN
False
Bay
SIMON’S TOWN
Simon’s Town
SCARBOROUGH Boulders Beach
TABLE MOUNTAIN
NATIONAL PARK
Miller’s PointATLANTIC
OCEAN
N
SmitswinkelbaaiOlifantsbos TABLE MOUNTAIN
NATIONAL PARK
CAPE OF GOOD
HOPE SECTION
Bordjiesrif
Buffels BayGifkommetjie
CAPE TOWN,
Cape Point WINELANDS &(238m)
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GARDEN ROUTEkilometres Cape of Good Hope Cape Point
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6 INTRODUCTION
But despite a reputation for greater liberalism and racial tolerance during apartheid than
the rest of the country, Cape Town has been the slowest South African city to embrace
post-apartheid multiracialism. Ever since the mid-seventeenth century when Jan van
Riebeeck, leader of the frst white people to settle in South Africa, thought of digging a
canal across the Cape Peninsula to cut it of from the rest of Africa, Cape Town has stood
aloof from the rest of the country. For 350 years its white establishment endeavoured to
maintain an illusion that the city was somehow really European, despite its location.
Under apartheid, black people were forcedly removed from the Western Cape, where
coloured people were given preference in the job market. Consequently, black Africans make
up less than forty percent of the Mother City, whereas they comprise over eighty percent
nationwide; the Western Cape and neighbouring Northern Cape are the only provinces
where coloured, rather than black, people form the majority. For most Capetonians, living
in crowded townships, poverty and sky-high crime rates are part of everyday life.
CINE CITY
Following the success of U-Carmen eKhayelitsha at the Berlin Film Festival in 2005, Cape Town
was not only lauded for showing its grittier face on flm, but Hollywood directors began to
realize the city’s chameleon-like ability to recreate anything from French boulevards to hectic
New York trafc. Cape Town was subsequently able to stand in for 35 diverse locations for the
2005 Nicolas Cage movie Lord of War, including Bolivia, Beirut, Berlin, the Caribbean, Sierra
Leone, Indonesia, Odessa and New York City.
Nowadays, Capetonians are increasingly spotting major Hollywood names in bars along
the Atlantic seaboard beaches, as 24, starring Kiefer Sutherland, Blood Diamond with Leonardo
DiCaprio and Jennifer Connelly, and Clint Eastwood-directed Invictus, starring Matt Damon and
Morgan Freeman, have been shot in the city. Following the arrival of the world-class R350m
Cape Town Film Studios in 2010, the city has hosted the flming of major Hollywood productions,
including Dredd and Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom, while scenes from the fourth season of TV
drama Homeland were shot in the Mother City in 2014.
ABOVE IDRIS ELBA IN MANDELA: LONG WALK TO FREEDOM OPPOSITE OSTRICHES NEAR OUDTSHOORNWhat to see
Table Mountain, frequently mantled by its “tablecloth” clouds, is the solid core of
Cape Town, dividing the city into distinct zones, with public gardens, wilderness, forests,
hiking routes, vineyards and desirable residential areas. To its north lies the city centre,
home to the city’s most important museums and galleries, and with a buzzing street life
– buskers, hawkers and market traders. In the adjacent Bo-Kaap Muslim quarter,
colourful terraces and restaurants serving Cape Malay curries add a local favour to the
city’s heart. A stone’s throw from the centre, the V&A Waterfront is a popular spot for
shopping, eating and drinking in a highly picturesque setting among the piers and quays
of a working harbour. It’s also the embarkation point for ferries to Robben Island, the site
of Nelson Mandela’s notorious incarceration. Te rocky shore west of the Waterfront is
occupied by the inner-city suburbs of Green Point, De Waterkant and Sea Point, their
seafronts and back-streets crammed with excellent restaurants and accommodation to
suit all budgets. Equally good for accommodation, but quieter, more leafy and upmarket,
the City Bowl suburbs gaze down from the slopes of Table Mountain foothills and the
neighbouring peaks across the central business district to the ships in Duncan Dock.
South from Sea Point, a coastal road traces the chilly Atlantic seaboard under the
heights of the Twelve Apostles and past some of Cape Town’s most expensive suburbs
and spectacular beaches to Hout Bay. From here, the road merges with the precipitous
Chapman’s Peak Drive, ten dramatically snaking kilometres of early twentieth-century
engineering carved into the western clif of the Table Mountain massif, high above the 8 INTRODUCTION
crashing waves. To the east, across Table Mountain, the exceptionally beautiful
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden creeps up the lower slopes, as do the
Constantia Winelands a little further south, while the middle-class Southern Suburbs
stretch towards Muizenberg and False Bay. Te scenic Metrorail train line cuts through
these suburbs and continues along the False Bay seaboard, passing through village-like
Kalk Bay, with its intact harbour and working fshing community, and Fish Hoek,
which has the best bathing beach along the eastern peninsula, before the fnal stop at
the historic settlement of Simon’s Town.
Most visitors see only the areas that were classifed under apartheid as “white” and
which remain relatively safe and salubrious. But the townships of the Cape Flats to the
east of the city can be visited on guided tours, and if you really want to get under the
skin of the African areas, you can enjoy the hospitality of several B&Bs in Xhosa homes.
An hour’s drive east of central Cape Town, the beautiful Winelands are rich in elegant
examples of Cape Dutch architecture, wonderful wines and excellent restaurants.
Southeast of town you can take the picturesque coastal route, winding around massive
sea clifs, to reach Hermanus, the largest settlement on the Whale Coast, and a fabulous
spot for shore-based whale watching.
After Cape Town, the best-known tourist feature of the Western Cape is the Garden Route,
half a day’s drive along the N2 from Cape Town or from Port Elizabeth in the Eastern Cape.
Tis coastal strip can be driven in a day, but to cover it so quickly would mean missing its
essence, which lies of the road in its seaside towns, lagoons, mountains and ancient forests
on the stretch between Mossel Bay and Storms River Mouth. Highlights include the holiday
town of Knysna and Tsitsikamma, at the easternmost section of the Garden Route National
Park, where the dark Storms River opens spectacularly into the Indian Ocean. Public
transport along the Garden Route is better than anywhere in the country, partly because the
route is a single stretch of highway served by the Baz Bus, and tour operators have begun
turning it into the country’s most concentrated strip for adventure sports and outdoor
activities. Parallel to the Garden Route, Route 62 provides a thoroughly rewarding inland
route to and from Cape Town, traversing some of the most dramatic mountain passes in the
region and taking in a number of picturesque Little Karoo dorps.
But the ultimate destination at the eastern end of the region, to which both the Garden
Route and Route 62 lead, is Addo Elephant National Park, where sightings of elephants
are virtually guaranteed, and there’s a chance of seeing lions, bufalo and rhinos, among
other wildlife.
When to go
Cape Town has a Mediterranean climate, the warm, dry summers balanced by cool wet
winters. Come prepared for hot days in winter and cold snaps in summer, and pack a
jumper and jacket whatever time of year you come. Te southeaster or “Cape Doctor”, the
cool summer wind that blows in across False Bay, forms a major obsession for Capetonians.
Its fckle moods can singlehandedly determine what kind of day you’re going to have, and
OPPOSITE BO-KAAP; SALT RIVER MOUTH; GIRAFFE IN A PRIVATE RESERVE10 INTRODUCTION
when it gusts at over 60kph you won’t want to
ANIMAL ATTRACTIONS be outdoors, let alone on the beach. Equally, it
In Cape Town you’re never far from
brings welcome relief on humid summer days,
the Table Mountain National Park and
and lays the famous cloudy tablecloth on top of although this is no longer lion
country (the last one was shot in the Table Mountain. Te Garden Route falls within
1720s), you can still see countless
overlapping weather systems and as a result has varieties of animals, birds and reptiles
here and along the city’s coastline. rain throughout the year, falling predominantly
Commonest of the peninsula’s large at night, to water the lush vegetation that gives
mammals are baboons, which
the region its name. It famously has the world’s number around fve hundred and are
mostly seen in the Cape of Good Hope mildest climate after Hawaii.
section of the park. Another common
For sun and swimming, the best time to
species are dassies, or rock hyraxes,
the fufy beasts that resemble large visit is from October to mid-December and
guinea pigs and routinely sun mid-January to Easter, when it’s light long into
themselves around the Upper
the evening and there’s an average of ten hours Cableway Station on Table Mountain.
Of the scores of other mammals of sunshine a day. Between mid-December and
present, including caracals, genets,
mid-January, the whole region becomes polecats, Cape foxes and some
congested as the nation takes its annual seaside twenty species of mice, among the
ones you’ll most likely see are Cape holiday. In Cape Town, this is serious party
Mountain zebras, bontebok (a
time, with plenty of major festivals and events, large antelope) and mongooses.
Moving ofshore, African while Knysna is gridlocked with trafc. If this is
penguins can be seen in high when you plan to visit, arrange accommodation
numbers at the colony in Boulders
and transport well in advance, and expect to Beach and at Stony Point, Betty’s Bay.
The city’s most famous and glorious pay considerably more for your bed than
marine mammals, however, are the during the rest of the year.
hefty southern right whales that
Despite its shorter daylight hours, the arrive in False Bay during their calving
season (peak period September and autumn period, from April to mid-May, has a
October), while dolphins are
lot going for it: the southeaster drops and air commonly spotted of the coast. And
if you’re willing to go under, you’ll temperatures remain pleasantly warm and the
discover that False Bay is one of the light is sharp and bright. For similar reasons
best places in the country to meet a
the spring month of September can be very great white shark face to face on a
shark-cage diving excursion. agreeable, with the added attraction that
following the winter rains, wildfowers bloom
and the peninsula tends to be at its greenest.
Although spells of heavy rain occur in winter
(June to August), it tends to be relatively mild,
with temperatures rarely falling below 6˚C.
Glorious sunny days with crisp blue skies are
common, and you won’t see bare wintry trees
either: indigenous vegetation is evergreen and
gardens fower year-round. It’s also in June that
the frst migrating whales begin to appear
along the southern Cape coast, usually staying
till the end of November.Author picks
Despite many years living in Cape Town our
authors remain amazed by the Mother City.
Whether it’s climbing the paths that criss-cross
Table Mountain, enjoying a sundowner at a
Kirstenbosch summer concert, or escaping to
the Winelands, the Cape Town area ofers
innumerable adventures. Here are some of the
experiences that make this city so special:
Top wildlife experience The fve-day Whale
Trail in De Hoop Nature Reserve is stunningly
beautiful throughout the year – and sublime in
season when there are whales to see every day
(p.188).
Scenic public transport ride The revolving
cable car up Table Mountain may be a head
turner, but a favourite local ride is a weekend
train trip to False Bay for a seaside beer in
Muizenberg, Kalk Bay or Simon’s Town (p.100).
Local laughs Catching a comedian such as
Nik Rabinowitz or Marc Lottering at the Baxter
Theatre is an evening of Capetonian humour,
attracting audiences from the nearby University
of Cape Town and beyond (p.137).
Best café in town Tamboers Winkel, for its
neighbourhood vibes, rustic feel and excellent
cofee, breakfasts and lunches (p.125).
Easy mountain walk Don’t like the look of
those paths ploughing up Table Mountain? The
Pipe Track contour path is relatively fat, with
views of the Twelve Apostles, Camps Bay and
Lion’s Head (p.74).
Wine estate With so many Cape Dutch beauties,
your favourite winery will likely change as often
as the Cape Doctor blows; top choices range
from Ataraxia (p.182), with its chapel tasting room
near Hermanus, to Babylonstoren (p.175) near
Franschhoek, a perennial favourite for its gardens
and restaurants.
Go out on a limb The beautiful timber-and-steel
“Boomslang” walkway sways gently in the wind as
it meanders through the forest canopy at
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden (p.83).
Our author recommendations don’t end
here. We’ve fagged up our favourite places
– a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric
café, a special restaurant – throughout the
Guide, highlighted with the symbol.★
ABOVE FROM TOP THE PIPE TRACK; BABYLONSTOREN FARM SHOP;
DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE12 18 THINGS NOT TO MISS
18
things not to miss
It’s not possible to see everything that Cape Town and the Garden Route
have to ofer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a
selective and subjective taste of the highlights, including outstanding
national parks, spectacular wildlife, thrilling adventure sports and beautiful
architecture. All entries have a page reference to take you straight into the
Guide, where you can fnd out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in
the Guide section.13
TABLE
MOUNTAIN
AERIAL CABLEWAY
Page 73
The revolving cable car
is the most spectacular
way to ascend Cape
Town’s famous peak.
OCEAN
SAFARIS
Page 180
Take to the waves for
incomparable
encounters with South
Africa’s whale and
dolphin species.
SUNDOWNERS
Page 94
Relax with a tipple in
Camps Bay as the sun
turns into a glowing orb
and sinks into the
ocean.
TOWNSHIP
TOURS
Page 90
See the reality of
daily life for most
Capetonians in one of
the city’s sprawling
townships.ZEITZ MOCAA
Page 67
The Waterfront’s new Museum of
Contemporary Art Africa occupies an
ambitiously repurposed grain silo.
CAPE POINT
Page 110
Roam the treacherous rocky promontory
south of Cape Town and experience one
of the most dramatic viewpoints in the
country.
PENGUINS
Page 108
Teeming with African penguins, Boulders
Beach ofers a surreal landscape of
enormous sea-worn rocks and fne, safe
swimming.
THE BO-KAAP
Page 50
On the slopes of Signal Hill, meander
through the city’s most colourful quarter.
WINELANDS
Page 158
The Western Cape’s wine estates
combine stunning scenery, Cape Dutch
architecture and some fne and
afordable vintages.
ELEPHANTS
Page 254
Addo Elephant National Park, the
world-famous reserve at the end of the
Garden Route, has over six hundred
pachyderms to marvel at.
MOTHER CITY QUEER
PROJECT PARTY
Page 153
The biggest and most outrageous
ball of the year – Cape Town’s
straight-friendly gay party.NEIGHBOURHOOD MARKETS
Page 144
Taste the products of the Cape’s vineyards,
felds, brewers, distillers and artisan
foodies, with craft and design thrown in.
CHAPMAN’S PEAK DRIVE
Page 96
Take a spin along the precipitous clif
edge of the Atlantic seaboard for the
most sublime views on the peninsula.
CANOPY TOURS
Page 229
Zip through the treetops among the
arboreal giants of South Africa’s largest
indigenous forest.
DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE
Page 188
Monumental dunes, zebras, bontebok
and whales by the dozen make this one of
the most compelling reserves in the
Western Cape.
ROBBEN ISLAND
Page 68
Visit the notorious ofshore jail where
some of South Africa’s most famous
fgures, including Nelson Mandela, were
incarcerated.
CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL
JAZZ FESTIVAL
Page 34
Local musos come into their own at the
most important jazz event of the year.
V&A WATERFRONT
Page 64
Find out why a huge harbourside
shopping mall is one of Africa’s most
popular tourist destinations.18 ITINERARIES
Itineraries
With Cape Town’s unbeatable mix of culture, culinary delights and
natural splendour, you can easily have both urban experiences and
outdoorsy fun. Mix days of mountain walks, museum visits and lounging
on the beach with nights of fne dining and partying. Be sure not to miss
the beautiful areas beyond the city limits, where activities from wine
tasting on historic Cape Dutch estates to exploring the Garden Route’s
old-growth forests await.
A WEEKEND IN CAPE TOWN
DAY ONE DAY TWO
1 1 Table Mountain Get going early to beat the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden
queue for the cable car, and enjoy exhilarating On Table Mountain’s eastern slopes, wander one
views of Cape Town from this 1000m-plus of the world’s greatest botanical gardens.
plateau. See p.73 See p.83
2 2 Castle of Good Hope The city’s oldest Constantia The world’s oldest winemaking
building, the seventeenth-century fort’s region outside Europe, with magnifcent Cape
courtyards and rooms were the centre of Dutch estates. See p.86
colonial administration. See p.58 3 Chapman’s Peak Drive Follow the Atlantic
3 City Centre African craft and grand edifces coast to this dramatic toll road cut into the clifs.
on Long Street and Greenmarket Square, See p.96
and Bree Street’s hip boutiques and cafés.
4 Clifton Fourth Take a picnic blanket
See p.44
to this beach beneath Lion’s Head to
4 V&A Waterfront Boats glide along the toast to the sun melting into the Atlantic.
waterways of this harbourside complex See p.94
between the aquarium, markets, museums, 5 Dinner Sea Point’s La Boheme Wine Bar &
cafés and bars. See p.64
Bistro emphasizes Cape Town’s Mediterranean
5 Bo-Kaap Smartie box houses and mosques climate and lifestyle with its French dishes,
climb the Cape Muslim quarter’s cobbled pavement seating and neighbouring espresso
streets. See p.50 and tapas bar. See p.128
6 6 Dinner One of the centre’s more authentic Drink An alternative to Clifton, Grand Café &
African restaurants, Addis in Cape serves Beach ofers chichi sundowners on the sand.
Ethiopian cuisine on injera (sourdough See p.133
fatbread). See p.122
ABOVE STELLENBOSCHITINERARIES 19
4 Truth Café It’s the world’s best café CAPE CUISINE
according to one British newspaper.
With its Mediterranean climate, the Cape is a Cofee roasters and fat-white afcionados
breadbasket, fruit bowl and wine barrel all rolled abound, but none can compete with
into one glorious package. Weave the following Truth’s steampunk decor and staf
into our other Cape Town itineraries or cover uniforms. See p.123
them in four days minimum.
5 Neighbourgoods Market Recalling
1 Bascule Bar The Cape Grace hotel’s
the days when farmers sold fresh fruit and
marina-side whisky bar has one of the southern
veg to seafarers, food markets are hugely
hemisphere’s best selections of the amber
popular for supplies, snacks, a meal or a
nectar, and ofers tastings with a whisky
beer. Woodstock Old Biscuit Mill’s Saturday
sommelier. See p.133
market began this latter-day trend.
2 See p.144Cape Malay cooking safari Learn how to
make local curries and specialities from a 6 Test Kitchen Book months ahead to
coloured culinary guru in a Bo-Kaap kitchen. experience the innovative cuisine at British
See p.51 chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ much-lauded
3 restaurant. See p.127 La Parada Tapas bars have taken of in
recent years; sample the craze at this Bree 7 Wine Tours On the great Cape Dutch estates
Street hangout with communal tables, around Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, quaf
street seating and Andalusian attitude. wine including the locally devised pinotage.
See p.132 See p.163
7
SEE INSET MAP
FOR DETAIL
1
2
A WEEKEND IN CAPE TOWN: DAY ONE
A WEEKEND IN CAPE TOWN: DAY TWO
3
CAPE CUISINE
False Bay 6
4 1
5
2
5 3 6 3
2
4 5 6
N
4
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
120 ITINERARIES
5 Knysna Vibrant Garden Route tourist town INTO THE CAPE WIDE OPEN
ofering activities from lagoon cruises to
Travel from Cape Town to the nearby Winelands
old-growth forest hikes. See p.209
and beyond, where the mountainous landscape
6 Tsitsikamma In the forested Garden unfolds in a stream of postcard-perfect images.
Route National Park, cross Storms River The following trip takes around ten days
Mouth on dramatic suspension bridges. minimum.
Choose between basing yourself in Nature’s
1 Stellenbosch The capital of the Winelands is Valley, with its lagoon-backed beach and
an oak-shaded student town with Cape Dutch tree-lined lanes, and the forest retreat of
architecture, museums and pavement cafés. Storms River Village, which ofers excellent
Cooling water gurgles along irrigation channels accommodation and activities from zip-lining
as tourists wander between wine tastings and to tubing. See p.224
African craft shops, making this little slice of
7 Addo Elephant National Park The Europe an inviting haven on hot summer days.
closest major park to Cape Town, with over six See p.159
hundred elephants and private reserves nearby.
2 Franschhoek Upmarket town among See p.254
mountains and vineyards, with galleries,
8 Prince Albert Reached over mountain restaurants and a museum and monument
passes, this desert dorpie (town) ofers an honouring its French Huguenot heritage.
accessible taste of the Great Karoo. Reached from Stellenbosch over the
See p.244stunning Helshoogte Pass, “French corner”
is a culinary capital with many of South 9 Montagu Returning to Cape Town along
Africa’s oldest and most prestigious wine Route 62 through the Little Karoo, stop in this
estates. See p.172 rustic farming town and climbing destination
3 with its dramatic Cogmanskloof Pass. Whale Coast Based in pretty, gastronomic
See p.234Stanford, enjoy whale watching in Hermanus,
shark-cage diving in Gansbaai and wine G Greyton A fnal piece of rural bliss before
tasting in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. descending Sir Lowry’s Pass to Cape Town, this
See p.176 dorpie of picture-perfect cottages and former
4 smallholdings has a few good restaurants and Wilderness Experience some wild African
galleries, all occupying an idyllic position in coastline in this aptly named Garden Route
the Riviersonderend Mountains. It’s also the town with its long white beach. Explore the
beginning of the Boesmanskloof Traverse trail, forest-covered mountains on horseback or fy
which crosses the mountains to pretty into the blue on a tandem paragliding fight.
McGregor. See p.190See p.204
INTO THE CAPE WIDE OPEN
8
7
9
1 2 10 65
4
3
N
ATLANTIC INDIAN OCEAN
OCEAN
RIGHT KNYSNA LAGOONROUTE 62 THROUGH THE LITTLE KAROO
Basics
23 Getting there 33 The media
24 Entry requirements 34 Festivals
25 Arrival 35 Parks, reserves and wilderness areas
25 Getting around 37 Crime and personal safety
30 Health 39 Travel essentialsGETTING THERE BASICS 23
Town via Johannesburg, expect high-season return Getting there
fares to start around $1200; you will save a lot if you
Most overseas visitors to Cape Town fy via Europe, the Middle East or Asia.
travel there by air, either on a direct From Canada, you’ll have to change planes in
fight or via Johannesburg, which is the US, Europe or Asia on hauls that can last over
connected to Cape Town by frequent thirty hours. High-season return fares from Toronto
domestic fights (see p.28). The few direct to Cape Town are similarly priced to those from the
services from North America stop to US east coast.
refuel in West Africa, but there are
nonstop fights from the UK, which allow Flights from Australia and New you to travel from London in twelve
Zealandhours. It can be cheaper, however, to fy
via mainland Europe or the Middle East. There are nonstop fights from Sydney (which take
Airfares always depend on the season, with the 14hr) and Perth (11hr) to Johannesburg, with
highest prices and greatest demand in July, August, onward connections to Cape Town; New
September, December and early January. Prices Zealanders also tend to fy via Sydney. South African
drop during April (except for around Easter), May Airways (SAA) and Qantas (Wqantas.com) are two
and November, while the rest of the year is of the airlines serving South Africa from Australia.
“shoulder season”. Several Asian, Middle Eastern and European airlines
fy to Cape Town via their hub cities, and tend to be
less expensive, but their routings can often entail Flights from the UK and Ireland
long stopovers.
From London there are nonstop fights to Cape Cape Town is not a cheap destination for travellers
Town with British Airways (Wba.com), and more from Australia and New Zealand; high-season fares
start around Aus$2000, low-season fares at fights via Johannesburg (often a cheaper option).
Flying time from the UK to Cape Town is around Aus$1600, for an indirect return fight from Sydney
to Cape Town with one change. A fight to Europe twelve hours and average high-season scheduled
direct fares from London start around £1000. You with a stopover in South Africa, or even a
round-theworld ticket, may represent better value than a can make major savings by fying via mainland
Europe, the Middle East or Asia, and enduring at straightforward return. The most afordable return
fights tend to travel via Dubai, Doha, Singapore and least one change of plane, often in Johannesburg.
There are no direct fights from Ireland, but a Kuala Lumpur, with the likes of Qatar Airways
number of European and Middle Eastern carriers fy (Wqatarairways.com) and Emirates (Wemirates.com).
to Cape Town via their hub airports.
AGENTS AND OPERATORS
Abercrombie & Kent Australia T 1300 851 800, Flights from the US and Canada
W abercrombiekent.com.au; UK T 01242 547 760,
There are no nonstop fights from the US, butther e W abercrombiekent.co.uk; US T 1800 554 7016,
are direct fights from New York (JFK) and W abercrombiekent.com. Classy operator whose packages feature
Washington (IAD) to Johannesburg stopping in Cape Town and luxury rail travel with Rovos Rail.
West Africa to refuel, operated by South African Africa Travel UK T 020 7843 3500, W africatravel.com.
Airways (SAA). These take between ffteen and Experienced Africa specialists, ofering fights and packages including a
seventeen hours. Most other fights stop of in thirteen-day Cape Town, Garden Route and Victoria Falls itinerary.
Europe, the Middle East or Asia and involve a Cox & Kings UK T 020 7873 5000, W coxandkings.co.uk;
change of plane. For fights from New York to Cape US T 323 271 4317, W coxandkingsusa.com. Stylish operator with
A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL
At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand
the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many
developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places
irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially fying .
All Rough Guides’ fights are carbon-ofset, and every year we donate money to a variety of
environmental charities.BASICS ENTRY REQUIREMENTS24
classic luxury journeys, including an eleven-day itinerary geared towards Wildlife Worldwide UK T 01962 302 086, W wildlifeworldwide
families. Also deluxe safaris. .com; US T 1800 972 3982. Tailor-made trips for wildlife and
Exodus Travels UK T 0203 553 0654, W exodus.co.uk; wilderness enthusiasts, covering the Cape and the great reserves.
US T 1 844 227 9087, W exodustravels.com. Small-group adventure
tour operator with itineraries in and around Cape Town, overland trips
taking in Kruger National Park and themed packages including activities Entry
such as cycling. Ofces worldwide.
Expert Africa New Zealand T 04 976 7585, UK T 020 3405 6666, requirements
US T 1 800 242 2434; W expertafrica.com. Mostly self-drive safari
packages, including Addo and with the option of incorporating fights Nationals of the US, Canada, Australia,
from the UK. New Zealand, Japan, Argentina and
Explore Worldwide UK T 01252 883 503, W explore.co.uk; Brazil don’t require a visa to enter South
Africa. Most EU nationals don’t need a US T 1 800 715 1746, W exploreworldwide.com. Good range of
small-group tours, expeditions and safaris, staying mostly in small hotels visa, with the exception of passport
holders from countries including the and taking in Cape Town and beyond.
Goway Travel US T 1 888 414 0246, W goway.com. Wide range of following, who will need to obtain one at
a South Africa diplomatic mission in their packages from two days on the Blue Train to six weeks overland, including
eleven days in Cape Town, the Winelands, the Garden Route and a private home country: Bulgaria, Croatia, Estonia,
Latvia, Lithuania, Romania, Slovak game reserve.
Joe Walsh Tours Ireland T 01 241 0800, W joewalshtours.ie. Republic and Slovenia.
Budget fares as well as hotels, golf packages and holidays from the As long as you carry a passport that is valid for at
Western Cape to Kruger. Also has ofces in the UK. least thirty days from the date of exit from South
Kuoni Travel UK T 0800 422 0799, W kuoni.co.uk. Flexible Africa, and has at least two empty pages, you will
package itineraries, including tailor-made tours, self-drive holidays and be granted a temporary visitor’s permit, which
escorted small-group excursions, with a nine-night trip covering the allows you to stay in South Africa for up to ninety
classic sights around Cape Town. Good ideas for families too. days for most nationals, and thirty days for EU
North South Travel UK T 01245 608 291, W northsouthtravel passport holders from Cyprus, Hungary and Poland.
.co.uk. Discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support All visitors should have proof of a valid return ticket
or another form of onward travel; immigration projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of
sustainable tourism. ofcers rarely ask to see it, but airlines will often
check. Likewise, visitors should have a bank Okavango Tours and Safaris UK T 07721 387 738, W okavango
.com. Top-notch outft with on-the-ground knowledge of sub-Saharan statement showing that they have sufcient funds
to cover their stay, but ofcials seldom ask to see it.Africa, ofering fully fexible and individual tours across the country,
including the Western Cape and family-focused packages. Cross-border “visa runs” are not possible, but you
can extend your visitor’s visa for up to ninety days, or On the Go Tours UK T 020 7371 1113, US T 1866 377 6147;
W onthegotours.com. Group and tailor-made tours to South Africa apply to stay for longer periods for purposes such as
study. Applications should be made through VFS including a two-week overland safari from Cape Town to Namibia.
Ofces worldwide. Global (T012 425 3000, Wvfsglobal.com/south
Rainbow Tours UK T 020 3131 2831, W rainbowtours.co.uk. africa), which will ask to see paperwork including
Knowledgeable Africa specialists whose trips include a sixteen-day Cape proof of sufcient funds to cover your stay.
Town, Garden Route and Kruger holiday. The easiest option is to use a consultant such as
STA Travel UK T 0333 321 0099, US T 1800 781 4040, Australia the immigration division of the International
T 134 782, New Zealand T 0800 474 400, South Africa T 0861 English School (T021 852 8859, Wenglish.za.net
781 781; W statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent /immigration-services) in Somerset West, just
travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental and more. Discounts outside Cape Town. Their services are
recomfor students and youth travellers. mended, and paying such a consultant’s fees is far
Trailfnders UK T 020 736 81200, Ireland T 01 677 7888; preferable to bureaucratic headaches.
W trailfnders.com. A well informed and efcient agent for See the box below for information on immigration
independent travellers, with numerous holiday packages on ofer. requirements for children travelling to South Africa.
Tribes UK T 01473 890 499, W www.tribes.co.uk; US T 1800 608
SOUTH AFRICAN DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS 4651. Unusual and of-the-beaten-track sustainable safaris and cultural
ABROADtours, including Cape Town itineraries.
USIT Ireland T 01 602 1906, W usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and Australia Corner State Circle and Rhodes Place, Yarralumla,
youth travel specialists ofer Cape Town packages. Canberra, ACT 2600 T 02 6272 7300, W sahc.org.au.ARRIVAL • GETTING AROUND BASICS 25
CHILDREN TRAVELLING TO SOUTH AFRICA
It is important to be aware of paperwork requirements pertaining to kids aged under 18 years,
which have caused families to miss fights since they were introduced in 2015.
Children travelling into or out of South Africa will be asked to show an unabridged (full)
birth certifcate in addition to their passport. Unlike abridged certifcates, the unabridged
version shows both parents’ details.
Where only one parent is accompanying, parental or legal consent for the child to
travel (eg an afdavit from the other parent or a court order) is required. There are other
requirements for children travelling unaccompanied or with adults who are not their parents.
The Department of Home Afairs has more details at Wwww.dha.gov.za, while the British
Foreign and Commonwealth Ofce ( Wwww.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/south-africa
/entry-requirements) is a good starting point for clear guidance and helpful links.
major car rental frms also have ofces Canada 15 Sussex Drive, Ottawa, ON K1M 1M8 T 613 744 0330,
W southafrica-canada.ca. Consulate 110 Sheppard Ave East, Suite here. Pre-booking a vehicle is
recommended, especially during the week 600, Toronto, ON M2N 6Y8 T 416 944 8825.
Netherlands 40 Wassenaarseweg 2596 CJ, The Hague T 070 392 when there is a big demand from
domestic business travellers, and over 4501, W zuidafrika.nl.
New Zealand Level 7, State Insurance Tower, 1 Willis St, Wellington the mid-December to mid-January and
Easter peak seasons.T 04 815 8484, W sahc.org.au/consular_new-zealand.htm.
UK South Africa House, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DP Metered 24-hour taxis operated by Touch Down
T 020 7451 7299, W southafricahouseuk.com. Taxis (T082 569 7555), the airport’s ofcially author -
US 3051 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20008 ised taxi service, rank in reasonable numbers
T 202 232 4400, W southafrica-newyork.net/homeafairs/index outside both terminals and charge around R250 for
.htm. Consulates 333 E 38th St, 9th foor, New York, NY 10016 the trip into the city.
T 212 213 4880; 6300 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 600, Los Angeles, CA The cheapest transport from the airport is the
90048 T 323 651 0902; 200 South Michigan Ave, 6th foor, MyCiTi bus (every 30min; 5am–9.30pm; R88;
Chicago, IL 60604 T 312 939 7929. T0800 65 64 63, Wmyciti.org.za), a safe, clean and
reliable option operated by the city. It goes to the
FOREIGN DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS IN Civic Centre on Hertzog Boulevard, near the
CAPE TOWN central train and bus stations, and has
connecMost embassies are in Pretoria, but countries including the tions further afeld (see p.26). More expensive but
following also have a consulate in Cape Town. considerably more convenient are the
door-toCanada 19th Floor, South African Reserve Bank building, door shuttle services which ofer transport
60 St George’s Mall. The consulate was temporarily closed at the around Cape Town, including airport transfers
(see p.27).time of writing; check the website for updates W southafrica.gc.ca.
Netherlands 100 Strand St T 021 421 5660,
W netherlandsworldwide.nl/countries/south-africa.
UK 15th foor, Norton Rose House, 8 Riebeek St T 021 405 240, Getting around
W www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british
-consulate-general-cape-town. Cape Town’s public transport system
US 2 Reddam Ave, Westlake T 021 702 7300, W za.usembassy.gov. consists of a bus network that serves the
city centre, the Northern Suburbs and
the Atlantic seaboard, as well as a train
line that runs through the Southern Arrival Suburbs and down the False Bay
Cape Town International Airport, the seaboard as far as Simon’s Town.
city’s international and domestic airport For some attractions, you’ll still need a car or else
(CPT; Wwww.airports.co.za), lies 22km you’ll have to rely on tours, minibuses and
east of the city centre. A bureau de metered taxis. For getting further afeld, there are
change is open to coincide with interna- several decent intercity bus lines as well as the Baz
tional arrivals; there are also ATMs here Bus backpacker service that serves some places the
and a tourist information desk. The intercity buses don’t reach.BASICS GETTING AROUND26
GO TOPLESS
The open-top, hop-on, hop-of red City Sightseeing Bus (T086 173 3287, Wcitysightseeing
.co.za; one-day ticket R170, children R90) is an extremely convenient, informative and, on a fne
day, fun way of getting to the major sights, especially with kids. Covering everywhere from
downtown to the Constantia wineries, their routes and tours include the following (for
which buses leave from their ofce by the Two Oceans Aquarium at the Waterfront):
Blue Mini Peninsula Tour (daily May to late Sept every 35min, late Sept to early May every
25min; 9am–3.25pm) stops on Long Street, Mount Nelson Hotel, Kirstenbosch, World of Birds,
Imizamo Yethu township, Mariner’s Wharf in Hout Bay, Camps Bay and Sea Point.
Red City Tour (daily May to late Sept every 20min, late Sept to early May every 15min;
8.40am–4.45pm) stops on Long Street before ascending Kloof Nek Road to the Table
Mountain cable car station and crossing Kloof Nek to Camps Bay, Sea Point and Green Point.
transport option in the evening and more routes City transport
are being added as the system evolves.
Cash is not accepted on buses and you’ll need a Although Cape Town’s city centre (aka the City Bowl
or CBD) is compact enough to walk around, many myconnect card, which you load with credit to
cover fares based on distance travelled. Fares of the major attractions are spread along the
considerable length of the peninsula and require include around R10 for routes within the city centre
(with a variation of a few rand between peak and transport to reach. Between them, the MyCiTi bus
network, introduced in 2011, and Metrorail’s of-peak periods), around R20 from the centre to
Hout Bay or Table View and R88 to the airport. Cards Southern Line down the peninsula cover Cape
Town fairly comprehensively, as far south as Hout can be bought for R30 from MyCiTi stations and
Bay on the Atlantic seaboard and Simon’s Town on various retailers, or you can buy a single-trip card at
False Bay. some stations (R90 at the airport).
The Golden Acre shopping complex, at the To use the card you tap your card against
validajunction of Strand and Adderley streets in the heart tors marked “in” when you board, and again on one
of Cape Town, can be a confusing muddle, but this, marked “out” when you get of.
along with the central train station opposite and The MyCiTi website has user-friendly and
up-tothe nearby Civic Centre, is where all rail and most date information on fares, routes and timetables.
bus transport (both intercity and from elsewhere in
Taxisthe city) converges, along with most minibus taxis.
Everything you need for your next move is within The term “taxi” refers, somewhat confusingly, to
two or three blocks of here, including the main conventional metered cars, jam-packed minibuses
tourist ofce (see p.43). and Rikkis.
Buses Metered taxis
The MyCiTi bus (T0800 065 64 63, Wmyciti.org.za) You will fnd regulated company-owned and
is a safe and comprehensive commuter system that independent metered taxis at the taxi ranks
operates daily from roughly 5am to 10pm. With around town, including the Waterfront, the train
stations along dedicated trunk roads, MyCiTi is part station and Long Street. You can also hail one of the
of the municipality’s initiative to improve public street, but to ensure you are using a regulated taxi,
transport in the trafc-plagued city. Frequent buses you’ll need to phone to be picked up (see box,
service the city centre, City Bowl suburbs, p.131). Taxis must have the driver’s name and
identiAtlantic seaboard and northern suburbs, fcation clearly on display and the meter clearly
providing a reliable transport alternative to cars, visible. Fares work out around R10 per kilometre,
although most middle-class Capetonians still rely with minimum charges from R20, and rates go up
on the latter. Frequencies vary between routes, but after dark. Services are available around the clock.
buses operate roughly every ten to twenty minutes Uber (Wuber.com/en-ZA/cities/cape-town) has
during peak periods (6.45–8am & 4.15–5.30pm) and become a popular and convenient option,
every twenty to thirty minutes during the of-peak although not without the controversy seen in other
period that falls between these times and over countries. Rates start around R7 per kilometre.
weekends. Importantly, MyCiTi is the safest public Download the app to your smartphone.GETTING AROUND BASICS 27
the spray and peer into rock pools. The stretch of For more taxi listings see the information in the
Drinking chapter (see box, p.131). the line to Fish Hoek is well served, with several
trains an hour. Services to Simon’s Town run roughly
Minibus taxis every twenty to sixty minutes.
There are often no signposts to the stations on the Minibus taxis are cheap, frequent and race up and
down the main routes at tearaway speeds. They can streets, so if you’re staying in the Southern Suburbs,
ask for directions at your accommodation. Tickets be hailed from the street – you’ll recognize them
from the whistling, hooting and booming music – must be bought at the station before boarding –
you’ll be safer and more comfortable in the frst-class or boarded at the central taxi rank, above the Cape
Town train station. Once you’ve boarded, pay the MetroPlus carriages, which are reasonably priced (for
example, Cape Town–Muizenberg is R13.50 one assistant who sits near the driver and say where you
want to get of. Fares are around R10 for trips way). Week and month passes are available.
around the centre. As well as dangerous driving, be For more info on the Southern Line see details in
prepared for pickpockets working the taxi ranks. Chapter 6 (see p.100).
Don’t take minibus taxis after dark.
Intercity busesRikkis and shuttle buses
The Rikkis Taxis feet includes London-style black Baz Bus (T086 122 9287, Wwww.bazbus.com)
cabs, operating all hours and aimed principally at operates an extremely useful hop-on, hop-of
tourists; book through T086 174 5547 or Wrikkis service fve days a week between Cape Town and
.co.za. They ofer airport shuttles, ride shares and a Port Elizabeth, via Mossel Bay, George, Knysna,
private door-to-door service. Plettenberg Bay, Storms River and Jefrey’s Bay, with
In the same vein but a little cheaper, the other stops possible along the N2. The service is
Backpacker Bus (booking two days ahead recom- aimed squarely at backpackers, with buses
mended; T082 809 9185, Wbackpackerbus.co.za) stopping of at hostels en route. The Cape Town–
ofers good-value transport between Cape Town, Port Elizabeth fare is R2300 one way, though there
are also better-value seven-, fourteen- and 21-day Stellenbosch and the airport. From Cape Town
accommodation to Stellenbosch costs R300 (R550 passes costing R2600, R4100 and R5100. Bookings
can be made through the website, by email, return); R450 (R650 return) for two people, R550
(R750 return) for three and R650 (R850 return) for telephone or SMS (T076 427 3003).
four. Their well-priced airport shuttle runs 24 hours South Africa’s three established intercity bus
a day as required to accommodate fight arrivals and companies are Greyhound (T083 915 9000,
departures (R220 one-way for the frst person, two Wgreyhound.co.za), Intercape (T021 380 4400,
people R350, three people R400, four people R450). Wintercape.co.za) and Translux (T086 158 9282,
Wtranslux.co.za); between them, they reach most
Trains towns in the country. Travel on these buses is
Cape Town’s suburban train service is run by generally safe, good value and comfortable; the
Metrorail (T021 449 6478, Wmetrorail.co.za, vehicles are invariably equipped with air
condiWcttrains.co.za). The only route likely to be useful to tioning and toilets. Keep your valuables close on
visitors is the relatively safe and reliable if slightly overnight journeys, when lone women should fnd
run-down Southern Line, which travels from Cape a seat at the front near the driver.
Town station through the Southern Suburbs and all Fares vary according to distances covered and the
time of year, with peak fares corresponding approxi-the way down the False Bay seaboard to Simon’s
Town. Four other routes serve the Northern mately to school holidays. As a rough indication
you can expect to pay the following Greyhound Suburbs, the Winelands and the Cape Flats;
however, these journeys aren’t recommended, as fares for single journeys from Cape Town: Paarl (1hr)
they run through less safe areas. Even on the from R320; Mossel Bay (7hrs) from R430; and Port
Southern Line, never board an empty carriage, and Elizabeth (12hr 30min) from R595.
only travel during daylight. Greyhound, Intercape and Translux intercity buses
The Southern Line to the False Bay seaboard leave from around the interlinked complex in Cape
must be one of the world’s greatest urban train Town’s centre that includes the train station and
journeys. It reaches the coast at Muizenberg and Golden Acre shopping mall (see p.26), mostly from
continues south to Simon’s Town, sometimes so Old Marine Drive of Adderley Street on the
spectacularly close to the ocean that you can feel northeast side of the station.