The Rough Guide to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast (Travel Guide eBook)

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Discover these exciting destinations with the most incisive and entertaining guidebook on the market. Whether you plan to soak up the atmosphere in Naples' Centro Storico, gaze out at the views from Ravello or kick back in seaside Sorrento, The Rough Guide to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast will show you the ideal places to sleep, eat, drink, shop and visit along the way.
- Independent, trusted reviews written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and insight, to help you get the most out of your visit, with options to suit every budget.
Full-colour maps throughout - navigate the backstreets of Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli or grasp the layout of historic Herculaneum without needing to get online.
-Stunning images a rich collection of inspiring colour photography.
Things not to miss - Rough Guides' rundown of the Napoli, Pompeii and Amalfi Coast region's best sights and experiences.
- Itineraries - carefully planned routes to help you organize your trip.
Detailed regional coverage - whether off the beaten track or in more mainstream tourist destinations, this travel guide has in-depth practical advice for every step of the way.
Areas covered include: Naples; the Campi Flegrei; Herculaneum; Mount Vesuvius; Oplontis; Pompeii; Sorrento; Capri; Ischia; Procida; Caserta; the Capuas; Benevento; the Amalfi Coast.
Attractions include: Paestum; Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte; Cumae; Ravello; Pompeii; Cappella Sansevero; Sorrento; Herculaneum; Museo Archeologico Nazionale; Villa San Michele; the Solfatara; Amalfi; Vesuvius; La Mortella.
Basics- essential pre-departure practical information including getting there, local transport, accommodation, food and drink, the media, festivals, culture and etiquette, health and more.
Background information - a Contexts chapter devoted to history, books, film and a handy language section and glossary.
Make the Most of Your Time on Earth with The Rough Guide to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast.

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THE ROUGH GUIDE TOTHE WORLD’S BEST PIZZA, Europe’s most unforgettable old
town and one of the great museums in the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale – Naples is city-break gold. But the sense of theatre that
grips Italy’s mesmerizing southern capital extends spectacularly
to the surrounding region, too, with the classical splendour of NAPLES
Pompeii and Herculaneum; gorgeous islands in Capri, Procida and
Ischia; and the jaw-dropping sweep of the Amalfi coast. Let this
expertly researched fourth edition lead you on your way. POMPEII & THE
AMALFI COAST
FULLY
UPDATED
4th EDITION
£13.99
US$19.99
Naples_B4_9780241308769_outside_cover.indd All Pages 05/02/2018 11:40
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OINSIDE THIS BOOK START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES
INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more
BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information
THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi
Coast, with area highlights and full-colour maps throughout
CONTEXTS History, art and architecture, plus recommended books and a useful
language section
TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 40 million
travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing.We’ve agged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special
restaurant – throughout the Guide with the symbol
Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast chapters
Benevento
Sant’Agata
Mondragone Capua dei Goti San Giorgio
Caserta del Sannio
Santa Maria
Capua Vetere
Casal di
PrincipeCastel Volturno 6
Arienzo
POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Things Not To Miss” section, essential itineraries and N
Lago di Patria
Marigliano a unique pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy
and perfect for short trips and weekend breaks.
AvellinoNola
Cuma 1
Lago di Fusaro 2 Naples
Pozzuoli Mt Vesuvius
Procida Ercolano Pompeii3 Mercato San Severino
Pompei
Ischia
Torre AnnunziataIschia
5 Castellammare di Stabia
Bay of Naples SalernoRavello
Sorrento
AmalfiPositano4 7
5 Capri
CapriAnacapri Gulf of Salerno
DIGITAL Choose from our
easy0 10
to-use ebooks and great-value kilometres
Paestum Snapshots to read on your tablet,
1 Naples 5 The islands phone or e-reader.
2 The Campi Flegrei 6 North of Naples
3 Pompeii and south of Naples 7 The Amal Coast
4 Sorrento and its peninsula
ROUGHGUIDES.COM Buy all our
latest ebooks and get inspired
with travel features, quizzes
and more.
Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This fourth edition published June 2018
Naples_B4_9780241308769_inside_cover.indd 1 05/02/2018 11:41THE ROUGH GUIDE TO
NAPLES
POMPEII & THE
AMALFI COAST
Written by
Martin Dunford
This fourth edition updated by
Anthon JacksonINTRODUCTION 3
Contents
INTRODUCTION 4
Where to go6 Things not to miss 10
When to go8Itineraries 16
Author picks9
BASICS18
Getting there 19 Food and drink 27
Arrival 21 The media 30
Getting around 22Festivals 31
Accommodation25 Travel essentials32
THE GUIDE 38
1 Naples 38 5 The islands 150
2 The Campi Flegrei 98 6 North of Naples 190
3 Pompeii and south of Naples 112 7 The Amalf Coast 208
4 Sorrento and its peninsula 132
CONTEXTS 240
History241Italian 253
Books249Glossary259
Film and TV251
SMALL PRINT& INDEX 260
OPPOSITE TEMPLES OF POMPEII PREVIOUS PAGE GULF OF SALERNO FROM VILLA RUFOLO GARDENS IN RAVELLO4 INTRODUCTION
Introduction to
Naples, Pompeii and
the Amalf Coast
A chaotic, dynamic and mesmerizing metropolis, Italy’s third largest city after
Rome and Milan couldn’t be more diferent from its northern counterparts.
Quite unlike anywhere else in Italy, or indeed the world, it will frustrate and
thrill in equal measure, and will soon have you under its spell. In addition to
its sheer chutzpah, the city’s stunning location on the Bay of Naples – within
easy reach of some of Europe’s greatest archeological sites, the fabled islands
of the bay itself, and Italy’s most jaw-dropping stretch of coast – make it one
of Italy’s absolute must-sees.
Naples and its region are undeniably appealing, with a huge variety of things to see and do,
but the city certainly comes with baggage. Plenty of Italians have never been here, and swear
that they never will. Internationally, too, its reputation is traditionally not strong, and has
perhaps only worsened as its longtime struggles against organized crime have been broadcast
far and wide through popular books, movies and television series. You may feel the same,
and quite honestly it’s easy to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum, the islands and the Amalf
Coast and barely set foot in the city itself. But to do that would be to miss somewhere
special, a destination that just two centuries ago was one of the largest cities in Europe and a
must-visit for any self-respecting Grand Tourist. With Italian Unifcation its power waned,
and its fortunes over the twentieth century mirrored those of the wider Italian south, marred
by poverty, corruption and stuttering economic growth. Tese days, however, it’s on the
upswing, and, truth be told, just as accessible for travellers as – and no more dangerous than
– anywhere else in Italy. Naples also provides a vibrant and fascinating base for seeing many
of the nearby attractions, with an integrated transport network around the Bay of Naples
that makes it a perfect half of a two-centre holiday. Spend time here before heading of for
the more bucolic delights nearby – you won’t regret getting to know one of Europe’s great
undiscovered tourist destinations.
ABOVE AMALFICalore
Sabato
Castel Morrone
Benevento
San Martino Apice
NAPLES, POMPEII AND THE AMALFI COAST Casertavecchia
San Giorgio
San Leucio del Sannio
del Sannio
Grazzanise Caserta Sant’Agata
Sannita
0 10 Cancello ed Arnone
RA9
dei Goti Montesarchio
A16
Santa Maria Capua Vetere
kilometres San Nazzaro
SS7
SS7q
Airola SS7
Chianche
Maddaloni
SS7
Torrioni
Castel Volturno
Calore
Marcianise
Villa Literno
Casal di Principe
N
Cervinara
A1 Arienzo
Pietrastornina Montemiletto
Pratola Serra
E45
SS7b
Summonte
Cicciano
A30 A16
Lago di
Roccarainola
Aversa Grottolella
Patria Caivano
SS7b Sirignano
Acerra
Marigliano
Cimitile
SS87
Manocalzati
Marina di Lago Patria Qualiano
Mugnano del Cardinale
E842
Afragola
A16 Mercogliano
Nola
Atripalda
Pomigliano d’Arco
SS7
SS7q
Marzano di Nola Avellino
Capodichino A16
Marano
Licola Mare
Airport
RA2
Domicella
Aiello del Sabato
Ottaviano
Forino
Cuma
A56
Palma Campana
Sant’
Anastasia
Pozzuoli
Serino
Lago del Fusaro San Giuseppe Vesuviano
Naples
Mt Vesuvius
Baia
Torregáveta
(1281 m)
Sarno
E841
Boscoreale
Solofra
Herculaneum
A30
Monte di Prócida
Bacoli Mercato San Severino
Trecase
Ercolano
A3
Miseno
Giffoni Sei Casali
Pompeii
Lacco Ameno
Casamícciola Torre del Greco Angri Pagani
Pompei
A2
Procida
SS18 Giffoni Valle Piana
Forío Nocera Inferiore
Ischia Torre Annunziata
Bay of Naples
Oplontis Castiglione
Baronissi
Lettere
Ischia dei Cenovesi
Sant’Antonio Abate
Montecorvino
Serrara
Rovella
Castellammare di Stabia Stabiae
Barano San Mango
A3
Cava de’Tirreni
Fontana
Monte Faito A2
Scala
Vico Equense (1131 m)
Salerno
Ravello
Pimonte
Vietri sul Mare
SS145 Monte San Michele
Maiori SS18
Sorrento (1444 m)
SS366
Meta
SS163
Amalfi Pontecagnano
E45
Minori
Sant’Agnello
Positano Cetara
Atrani
Erchie
Massa Lubrense Bellizzi
Conca dei Marini Battipaglia
Praiano
Sant’Agata sui due Golfi
Marina del Cantone
Termini
Capri
Gulf of Salerno
Nerano
Capri
SS18
Anacapri
Trapani & Tunis Palermo & Catania Cagliari Agropoli Paestum (10km)
Regi Lagni
T
usciano
V
olturno
Olbia & C
agliari
P
or
t
o V
ec
chio & P
alau
V
ent
ot
ene & P
onza6 INTRODUCTION
Where to go
Te diversity of attractions in Naples and its region means that – time permitting – you
can pack a lot into your holiday. With just a weekend to spare, Naples makes a great
city-break option, giving you the right amount of time to cover the main sights and
wander the atmospheric ancient centre; if you have a week at your disposal, you could
also take in some of the bay’s famous archeological sights, as well as spend a couple of
days island-hopping or following the dramatic coast road to the towns around Amalf.
Any longer than this and you can explore the city, coast and islands at your leisure, with
great public transport connections cutting travelling (and driving) time to a minimum.
If Naples is your base, head straight for the Centro Storico, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site whose dead-straight streets follow the grid of the ancient Greek and Roman settlements
on which the city was founded. Tis area is Naples’ spiritual heart, home to an array of
churches and palaces, and a street-level commerce that couldn’t be further from the
homogenized centres of many of Europe’s major cities. Te big museums and attractions are
elsewhere, but if you experience only one thing in the city, it should be this. Beyond the old
centre, Via Toledo is the modern hub of Naples, a busy shopping street that leads up from a
cluster of portside attractions – the Palazzo Reale, Teatro di San Carlo and Castel Nuovo,
among others – to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, one of the great museums of Europe,
home to the best of the region’s ancient Roman fnds. West of Via Toledo, the jungle of
congested streets that make up the notorious Quartieri Spagnoli neighbourhood rubs
shoulders with the elegant boulevards of Chiaia, a haven of designer shopping and high-end
dining that is quite at odds with much of the rest of the city. Up above, accessible by
funicular, Vomero is similarly well heeled, a nineteenth-century residential quarter that
boasts heart-stopping views and some of the city’s most historic museums, most notably in
the Certosa di San Martino. Northeast of here, on another of Naples’ hills, Capodimonte
harbours a former residence of the Neapolitan royals, now home to the excellent Museo
Nazionale di Capodimonte, one of Italy’s fnest art collections.
But there’s plenty to draw you out of the city too. To the south, the evocative remains
of ancient Pompeii – among the best-known archeological sites on earth – need little
introduction, frozen in time nearly two millennia ago before emerging from the volcanic
rubble. Nearby, the excavated town of Herculaneum, smaller but in many ways no less
impressive than its more famous neighbour, makes a worthy rival. Numerous other
Roman ruins unearthed along the coast – at Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale – are all
worth a visit, as is Vesuvius, which dominates the coast south of the city. Beyond here,
the sprawl of Naples peters out and you’re into holiday territory, beginning with the
resort town of Sorrento – an appealing mixture of earthiness and elegance that makes a
good base for sampling the many and varied delights of the whole peninsula.
To the west of Naples lie the fabled Phlegrean Fields or Campi Flegrei, named for the
volcanic activity that has been a feature of the region for centuries. Te remarkable
Solfatara, just outside the main town of Pozzuoli, is the most visible instance of this: an
otherworldly landscape of bubbling mud and sulphurous fumaroles. Pozzuoli itself is
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT AMALFI; MEN’S CLUB IN FORMER CHURCH, SORRENTO; CENTRO STORICO, NAPLES8 INTRODUCTION
home to a number of sights dating back to a time when it was the principal port of
ancient Rome – remains that provide a taster of the ruined cities of Baia and Cumae
beyond. North of Naples lie more ancient sites, principally in Capua and in the
provincial capital of Benevento, but the area’s real draw is the vast royal palace at
Caserta, an eighteenth-century pile that dominates the town.
Te islands of the Bay of Naples – Capri, Ischia and Procida – are a massive draw, and
many people arrive at Naples’ train station or port and ship right out again on the frst
ferry. Of the three islands, Ischia has perhaps the broadest appeal, much larger than its
neighbours and with an assortment of attractions that make it suitable for everything
from a day-trip to a fortnight’s holiday: climb to the top of its extinct volcano, relax in its
healing spa waters, or just eat and laze the days away in one of its small-scale resorts.
Capri is smaller and more scenically spectacular, but it can be heaving in high season
– and its high prices refect its popularity. Te dazzling landscape and sharp
Mediterranean light make it truly special, however, and it would be a pity to come to
Naples and not visit at all – though it’s best out of season or after the day-tripping masses
have gone home. Tiny Procida remains the least-known of the islands, at least among
foreign visitors, though it’s fast becoming a popular alternative for the laidback charms of
its handful of fshing villages, colourful marinas and picturesque beaches.
Te Amalf Coast draws crowds of admiring visitors, and no wonder: its crags and clifs,
girdled by a spectacular coastal road, are as mind-blowing as you are given to expect. If
you avoid the tourist hotspots, and travel outside the peak months of July and August,
you’ll fnd it bearably busy, and with a range of rewards in the shape of stunning coastal
towns like Amalf, Ravello and Atrani.
When to go
Like the rest of Southern Italy, Naples and its surroundings enjoy a mild Mediterranean
climate, with warm summers and mild winters. Te hottest months are June through to
August, although temperatures are rarely uncomfortably high, and the islands and coast
usually enjoy the beneft of a cooling breeze. Te wettest period tends to be the autumn
and early winter, when the region is prone to thunderstorms and downpours, particularly
in October. January and February can also be wet and cold, but conditions usually
improve by March and April. Te best months to visit are May, June and September; the
weather is usually warm and sunny, and you’re also likely to catch a festival (see p.31).
Te soaring temperatures of August, and the fact that this is when the Italians take their
annual holiday, make it the month to avoid, especially in Naples, when everything is
closed, and the coastal resorts, when everything is crowded and expensive.
AVERAGE TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Max/Min (°C) 13/5 13/5 16/7 18/9 23/12 26/16 30/19 30/19 27/16 22/13 17/8 13/6
Rainfall (mm) 80 100 80 100 60 30 30 30 80 130 140 100
OPPOSITE FROM TOP GELATO; FONTANELLE CEMETERY IN NAPLES; SENTIERO DEGLI DEIAuthor picks
Martin Dunford has travelled every inch of the
Naples region and loves it in all its diferent
aspects, but there are certain places and activities
that for him make a visit truly special.
Gorgeous beaches Procida (p.185) has plenty
of attractive beaches to choose from, and Ischia’s
long, sandy beaches make the island the ideal
choice for a break with the kids (p.170).
Budget stays Your holiday budget will go a long
way in Naples, which has plenty of inexpensive
accommodation, and makes a good base for
day-trips. But there also some great budget
choices on the islands and on the Amalf Coast
(p.83, p.142, p.182, p.216, p.226 & p.237).
Cultural treasures The impressive collections of
the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (p.68), Museo
Nazionale di Capodimonte (p.73) and MADRE (p.57)
make Naples an obvious base for a cultural break.
Spooky death cults Death is a recurring motif
in Naples – in its weird cemeteries full of skulls
(p.72), underground catacombs (p.72) and death
cult churches (p.51) – and an interesting way to
understand the city.
Sublime feasts Naples is arguably Italy’s
greatest foodie location – unpretentious
home-style restaurants serve up great pasta and
freshly caught fsh and seafood. It’s also the home
of pizza, and if you love gelato you’re in for a treat.
Up in the hills and along the Amalf Coast, you’ll
also fnd very special restaurants (p.148 & p.217).
Natural beauty Hike into the hinterland of the
Sorrentine peninsula to escape the crowds and
experience the region’s beauty in its most primal
form (p.130).
Lazy days The thermal spas of Ischia are perfect
for pampering and easing away aches and pains
(p.181).
Romantic bolthole The stupendous backdrop of
the Amalf Coast makes the swanky hotels of hilltop
Ravello the ultimate romantic hideaway (p.231).
Seaside fun Sorrento is the quintessential coastal
resort, with a lovely old town, good restaurants
and appealing hotels at all prices (p.134).
Our author recommendations don’t end
here. We’ve fagged up our favourite places
– a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric
café, a special restaurant – throughout the
Guide, highlighted with the symbol.★10 17 THINGS NOT TO MISS
17
things not to miss
It’s not possible to see everything that Naples, Pompeii and the Amalf Coast
have to ofer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no
particular order, is a selective taste of the region’s highlights, from cliftop
towns and heavyweight museums to active volcanoes and unforgettable
Roman ruins. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page
reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can fnd out more.
111
2
PAESTUM1
Page 238
This series of Hellenistic
temples, set among the
fatlands to the south of
Salerno, constitute one of
Italy’s most haunting and
evocative ancient sites.
MUSEO NAZIONALE 2
DI CAPODIMONTE
3 Page 73
A vast palace above the city
centre holding one of the
best collections of
Renaissance art in Italy.
CORRICELLA3
Page 187
The Bay of Naples’ prettiest
pastel fshing harbor is set on
it tiniest, most tranquil
island.
RAVELLO4
Page 227
The fabulous views from
Ravello have graced a
thousand postcards. A true
retreat.
45
POMPEII5
Page 124
Preserved by ash in the 79 AD eruption of
Vesuvius, no other site has revealed as
much about daily life in ancient Rome.
CAPPELLA SANSEVERO6
Page 55
This chapel pays perhaps the most
poignantly beautiful homage of them all
to the Neapolitan fascination with death.
SORRENTO7
Page 134
The Italian seaside resort at its best.
Sorrento is a lovely small town wholly
given over to the pursuit of pleasure.
HERCULANEUM8 6Page 114
Less well known than Pompeii, this
buried city is still one of the greatest
Roman ruins on the planet.
MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO 9
NAZIONALE
Page 68
One of the world’s great archeological
collections, with evocative fnds from
Pompeii and Herculaneum.
VILLA SAN MICHELE10
Page 162
In contrast to Capri’s well-documented
glamour, Axel Munthe’s idyllic home
refects the island’s simpler charms.
IL SORGETO11
Page 178
Take a midnight hike down to the hot
springs at the mouth of this stunning little
bay as it glimmers in the moonlight. 78 9
10 1112 13
1415
CENTRO STORICO, NAPLES12
Page 43
There’s nowhere like it, in Italy or the
world, and wandering around these
ancient streets and soaking up the
atmosphere is an essential Naples
experience.
AMALFI13
Page 220
Piled up on a clifside, this ancient
maritime republic makes an appealing
base for the entire Amalf Coast. At the
central piazza, precipitous steps climb
to the town’s Duomo.
VESUVIUS14
Page 12015
Climbing to the summit of mainland
Europe’s only active volcano is
something you should defnitely not
miss.
NAPOLI SOTTERRANEA15
Page 51
If there’s one thing that’s more
spectacular than strolling the streets of
Naples’ old centre, it’s poking about the
streets beneath it by candlelight.
LA MORTELLA16
Page 176
A Mediterranean garden as beautiful as
you’ll fnd anywhere in the world.
PIZZA17
Pages 85–91
Where better to eat pizza than in the
city where it was invented?
Neapolitan-style pizza has a soft and
chewy base and simple toppings, baked
quickly in a scorching oven.16
1716 ITINERARIES
Itineraries
Naples and its region have so much to ofer that it’s sometimes hard to know
where to start, especially if your time is limited. Below we’ve listed a number
of suggested itineraries that take in the best of the region, based on time
and specifc interests. There’s no need to follow them slavishly – they’re ideas
that ft together both geographically and thematically, no more – but we
hope they give you an easily digested taste of the huge richness and
diversity of Naples, Pompeii and the Amalf Coast.
4 Subterranean Naples Be sure to check out A LONG WEEKEND IN NAPLES
Naples’ underground attractions – catacombs, AND BEYOND
Bourbon tunnels and bits of the buried Roman
We reckon Naples is one of the most underrated
city. See p.72 and p.76
destinations there is for a weekend break. There
5 Herculaneum Smaller and easier to is so much to see in the city itself and many
assimilate than Pompeii, Herculaneum is also easily accessible attractions nearby. If time is
close to the city and combines well on a tight you may want to choose between the
day-trip with Vesuvius. See p.114resorts and the ancient sites.
6 Vesuvius You can’t ignore the glowering hulk 1 Centro Storico, Naples The Centro Storico is
of Vesuvius wherever you are in the city; Naples’ beating heart, and a stroll here should
excursions to its crater are a must. See p.120be your frst activity. Key sights along the way
include the churches of Santa Chiara and San 7 Pompeii It may be obvious, but for good
Domenico Maggiore, the Gesù Nuovo and the reason – do you really want to return home and
amazing Cappella Sansevero. See p.43 say you didn’t bother? See p.124
2 Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples 8 Sorrento Were there ever two resorts more
The city has some exceptional museums – the sybaritic than Sorrento and its near neighbour
Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte for fne art, Capri? Of the two, Sorrento is the more
MADRE for contemporary works and, best of all, down-to-earth and enjoyable, and it’s the best
the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. You’d be jumping of point for Capri. See p.134
mad to come to Naples and not visit what is 9 Capri It would be a shame to come to Naples
perhaps the greatest collection of Roman fnds
and not see Capri – scenically it’s stunning, and on
anywhere. See p.68
a day-trip you can easily escape the crowds by
3 Vomero, Naples Head down busy Via walking the coast or jumping on a bus. See p.155
Toledo, along Santa Lucia’s glamourous
waterfront promenade, and up one of the THE COAST AND ISLANDS
funiculars to enjoy the stunning views from The great thing about Naples is its proximity to
Vomero’s Certosa San Martino. See p.80 some of the most storied and spectacular resort
destinations in Italy. With a full two weeks, you
ABOVE POSITANOITINERARIES 17
could cover it all, and get to know Naples well; if OUTDOORS IN CAMPANIA
you have less time, pick from the stops below,
Allow a week to ten days for the following
skipping over an island or speeding through the
itinerary, which combines the best of the
Amalf Coast to Paestum.
region’s landscapes and activities, taking in
1 Naples Before setting of from Naples, take in mountains and sea, walking and watersports.
as much of the city as you can, making sure to
1 Vesuvius Why visit Naples and not take the
see the highlights detailed in our “Long
chance to hike up to the top of mainland
Weekend” itinerary. See p.38
Europe’s only active volcano? See p.120
2 Procida The smallest of the three bay islands
2 Monte Faito Enjoy great vistas of the bay on
has a relaxed, unpretentious feel, with some pretty
the hike – or cable-car ride – from
beaches and even prettier little towns. See p.185
Castellammare di Stabia before heading down
3 Ischia The largest and most diverse of the the other side to Positano. See p.130
bay islands, with a raft of activities to enjoy: 3 Path of the Gods This beautiful hiking trail
walking to the summit of the island; exploring
along the Amalf Coast is wildly popular and for
La Mortella (a must); and, of course, simply
good reason, providing stunning views down
lazing on the beach. See p.170
on Positano. See p.216
4 Capri It’s the obvious choice among the 4 Amalf There are lots of paths that converge
islands, and also the most easily explored in a
on Amalf and Ravello, from where you can
day or so; stay overnight to really get the best
escape the crowds and explore the wilds of the
out of it. See p.155
coastal mountains. See p.220
5 Sorrento One of the most appealing of all
5 Punta Campanella The region’s only marine
Italian seaside resorts; not to be missed if you
nature reserve, well worth visiting if you can get
want a spot of indolent indulgence. See p.134
permission. See p.146
6 Amalf Perhaps the best base for visiting the
6 Monte Solaro Take the ferry from Sorrento
Amalf Coast, it’s just a bus ride away from
– or the Amalf Coast in high season – to Capri
everything and has a great old town and plenty
and stand atop its highest point. Don’t miss the
of places to stay and eat. See p.220
islands’ other scenic coastal trails while you’re
7 Ravello Staying overnight here is something there. See p.161
special, and feels quite separate from the scrum
7 Benevento The hilly, wooded countryside
of the rest of the coast. See p.227
around this inland town, a 1hr 30min train or
8 Paestum The three grand temples of bus ride from Naples, begs to be explored on
Paestum form one of the greatest Hellenistic foot – and the beauty is you won’t fnd many
sites in Italy, an evocative sight at any time, but others doing the same. See p.204
wonderful in the early morning or late evening
when there’s no one around. See p.238
7
1 2
3 4 1 1
6
5
2 7
3
Bay of Naples
2
7
85
4 63
5
94 6 Gulf of Salerno
A LONG WEEKEND IN NAPLES AND BEYOND
THE COAST AND ISLANDS
OUTDOORS IN CAMPANIA
8SCOOTER IN THE CENTRO STORICO, NAPLES
Basics
19 Getting there
21 Arrival
22 Getting around
25 Accommodation
27 Food and drink
30 The media
31 Festivals
32 Travel essentialsGETTING THERE BASICS 19
South Africa Embassy: 796 George Ave, Arcadia 0083, Pretoria Getting there
(T 012 423 0000, W ambpretoria.esteri.it). Consulates in
The easiest way to get to Naples from the Johannesburg (T 011 728 1392); Cape Town (T 021 487 3900).
UK and Ireland is to fy, and the city is UK Embassy: 14 Three Kings Yard, London W12K 4EH (T 020 7312
served by some of the biggest low-cost 2200, W amblondra.esteri.it). Consulates in Manchester
operators. There are no direct fights (T 0161 236 9024); Liverpool (T 0151 666 2866); Edinburgh
from the US or Canada; most people fy (T 0131 226 3631).
via London or another European gateway US Embassy: 3000 Whitehaven St NW, Washington DC 20008
and pick up a cheap fight on from there, (T 202 612 4400, W ambwashingtondc.esteri.it). Consulates in
or fy direct to Rome and take an onward cities nationwide, including Boston (T 617 722 9201); Chicago
fight or (better) a train – a journey of just (T 312 467 1550); Detroit (T 313 963 8560); Los Angeles (T 310
over an hour by the fastest rail connec - 820 0622); New York (T 212 737 9100); Philadelphia (T 215 592
tion. Australia, New Zealand and South 7329); San Francisco (T 415 292 9200).
Africa see no direct fights to Italy, but
FOREIGN CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES plenty of airlines fy to Rome via Asian or
ITALYEuropean hubs.
Airfares depend on the season, with the highest Australia Via Bosio 5, Rome (T 06 852 721, Witaly.embassy.gov.au).
being around Easter, from June to August and from Canada Via Carducci 29, Naples (T 081 401 338,
Christmas to New Year. Fares drop during the W canadainternational.gc.ca/italy-italie).
“shoulder” seasons – September to October and Ireland Via Giacomo Medici 1, Rome (T 06 585 2381,
April to May – and you’ll get the best prices during W embassyofreland.it).
the November-to-March low season (excluding New Zealand Via Clitunno 44, Rome (T 06 853 7501, Wmfat.govt
Christmas and New Year). Prices also tend to be .nz/en/countries-and-regions/europe/italy/new-zealand-embassy).
cheaper if you travel on weekdays. South Africa Via Tanaro 14, Rome (T 081 852 541, W sudafrica.it).
UK Via XX Settembre 80/a, Rome (T 06 4220 0001, W ukinitaly
.fco.gov.uk).Visas and red tape
USA Piazza della Repubblica, Naples (T 081 583 8111, W naples
All EU citizens (and most of those from European .usconsulate.gov).
countries not in the EU) can enter Italy and stay as
long as they like on production of a valid passport. Flights from the UK and Ireland
Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and
New Zealand also need a valid passport, but are Though Naples isn’t quite as well served as Milan or
limited to stays of three months. All other nationals Rome, there are regularly scheduled fights from
SCOOTER IN THE CENTRO STORICO, NAPLES
should consult the relevant embassy about visa London (2hr 40min) throughout the year, including
requirements. Legally, you’re required to register daily fights with British Airways (Wba.com) from
with the police within three days of entering Italy, Gatwick. The big budget carriers also ofer daily
though if you’re staying at a hotel this will be done connections year round, with easyJet (Weasyjet
for you. .com) departing from Gatwick, Luton and Stansted
and Ryanair (Wryanair.com) from Stansted. In high
ITALIAN EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES season there are also regular fights with Meridiana
ABROAD (Wmeridiana.it) from Gatwick and with Thomsonfy
Australia Embassy: 12 Grey St, Deakin, Canberra, ACT 2600 (Wthomson.co.uk) from Gatwick, Luton, Birmingham,
(T 02 6273 3333, W ambcanberra.esteri.it). Consulates in East Midlands, Manchester, Newcastle, Glasgow,
Melbourne (T 03 9867 5744); Sydney (T 02 9392 7900); Bournemouth and Bristol. From Ireland, Aer Lingus
Adelaide (T 08 8337 0777); Brisbane (T 07 3299 8944); Perth (Waerlingus.com) fies direct from Dublin to Naples
(T 08 9322 4500). three times a week between April and October.
Canada Embassy: 275 Slater St, Ottawa, ON, K1P 5H9 (T 613 Bear in mind also that fying to Rome and taking
232 2401, W ambottawa.esteri.it). Consulates in Montréal the train is always an option, if you can fnd a cheap
(T 514 849 8351); Toronto (T 416 977 1566); Vancouver fare.
(T 604 684 7288). Fares depend, as ever, on how far in advance
Ireland Embassy: 63–65 Northumberland Rd, Dublin 4 (T 01 660 you book and the time of year, and the cheapest
1744, W ambdublino.esteri.it). tickets come with restrictions: any changes incur
New Zealand Embassy: 34–38 Grant Rd, PO Box 463, Thorndon, additional fees, and tickets are rarely valid for longer
Wellington (T 04 473 5339, W ambwellington.esteri.it). than a month. In general, between April and BASICS GETTING THERE20
A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL
At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand
the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many
developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places
irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially fying.
All Rough Guides’ fights are carbon-ofset, and every year we donate money to a variety of
environmental charities.
October you can expect to pay around £200–250 plenty of airlines fy to Rome and Milan from Asian
return. Book far enough in advance with a low-cost hubs. Return fares to Naples from the main cities
airline and you might be able to pick up a ticket for in  Australia go for around Aus$1400 in low and
£150 return including taxes, even in summer; book shoulder seasons, rising to Aus$2500 in high season,
anything less than three weeks in advance and this and from New Zealand from around NZ$1600 during
can easily double. Low-season fares can be as low season to around NZ$2500 in high season. From
cheap as £60 return, even with scheduled carriers. South Africa, reckon on paying at least ZAR7500
return from Johannesburg or Cape Town.
Flights from the US and Canada DISCOUNT FLIGHT AGENTS
There are no direct options to Naples from North Flight Centre UK W fightcentre.co.uk, US W fightcenter.com,
America, and you’ll get the widest choice of fights Australia W fightcentre.com.au, NZ W fightcentre.co.nz. Specializes
by fying to Rome and then taking either a in budget fights and holiday packages.
connecting fight or a train. The Italian fag-carrier, North South Travel UK W northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly,
Alitalia (Walitalia.com), has the most direct routes competitive travel agency, ofering discounted fares worldwide. Profts are
between the US and Rome, with daily fights from used to support projects in the developing world, especially the
New York, Boston, Miami, Los Angeles and Toronto. promotion of sustainable tourism.
Among the national carriers, United (Wunited.com) STA Travel W statravel.com. Worldwide specialists in independent
fies from Newark, and US Airways (Wusair.com) from travel; also student ID, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes and more.
Philadelphia, while many European carriers fy to Italy Good discounts for students and under-26s.
(via their main hubs) from major US and Canadian Trailfnders W trailfnders.com. One of the best-informed and most
cities – for example BA (via London), Aer Lingus (via efcient agents for independent travellers.
Dublin), Lufthansa (via Frankfurt; Wlufthansa.com)
and KLM (via Amsterdam; Wklm.com). Several Trains
low-cost carriers link various US cities to Rome,
most notably Norwegian (Wnorwegian.com) via Travelling by train to Italy isn’t a particularly
economOslo, Copenhagen and Stockholm. ical option, but you can at least break up your
The fares charged by each airline don’t vary as journey en route. The most direct route is to take the
much as you might think, and you’ll often be basing Eurostar from London to Paris, then the “Thello”
your choice around fight timings, routes and overnight sleeper from Paris to Milan, changing there
gateway cities, ticket restrictions, and even the to a fast train to Naples (in summer Thello sleepers
airline’s reputation for comfort and service. It’s quite run as far as Rome). Total journey time is around 24
a long fight – eight or nine hours from New York, hours, and if you book far enough in advance you
Boston, Miami and the eastern Canadian cities – so can get a one-way ticket for a little over £100 in low
it’s as well to ensure that you’re comfortable and season, though peak prices can be upwards of £300.
arrive at a reasonably sociable hour. The cheapest Discounts for under-26s are sometimes available and
return fares to Rome or Naples start at US$600–800 advance booking is essential. If Italy is just one stop
or Can$750–1000, risng to around double that on a longer European trip you could invest in a rail
during high season. pass – the Rail Europe website is a useful source
of information.
Flights from Australia, RAIL CONTACTS
New Zealand and South Africa Eurostar UK T 03448 242 524 W eurostar.com.
There are no direct fights to anywhere in Italy from Rail Europe/Voyages SNCF Canada T 1 800 361 7245,
Australia, New Zealand or South Africa, although W raileurope.ca; India/South Africa W raileurope-world.com; UK ARRIVAL BASICS 21
T 0844 848 5848, W uk.voyages-sncf.com; USA T 1 800 622 8600, Arrival
W raileurope.com.
The Man in Seat Sixty-One W seat61.com. Arriving in Naples is more painless than
Thello W thello.com. you might think – the train station is
central and the airport not far out of Trainseurope T 0871 700 7722, W trainseurope.co.uk.
Trainline W trainline.eu. town. But it’s worth knowing that the
airport is something of a hub for the
region, and is almost as well connected Tours to Sorrento, Salerno and the Amalf
There are plenty of tours of Naples and its Coast as it is to Naples’ city centre. The
city’s main train station is also very well surroundings on ofer – from accompanied walks,
hikes and cruises to archeology, cookery and integrated with the public transport
system, not only across the city but also wine tours. Depending on your budget, needs or
particular interests it may be worthwhile enlisting a around the Bay of Naples and beyond.
knowledgable guide here or there.
By planeTOUR OPERATORS
UK Naples’ Capodichino airport (T081 789 6111,
Alternative Travel Group W atg-oxford.co.uk. Inclusive fve- to Waeroportodinapoli.it) is a little way northeast
eight-day walking holidays on the Amalf Coast. of  the city centre. Alibus (every 15–20min,
Citalia W citalia.com. Long-established company ofering packages in 6am–11.40pm; T081 763 2177) buses link the
Sorrento, the Amalf Coast, Capri and Ischia. airport with Naples’ Piazza Garibaldi (15min) and the
GoLearnTo W golearnto.com. Excellent learning holidays specialist, Molo Beverello (handy for the islands; 25min).
ofering a range of cookery courses in Sorrento. Tickets cost €3 in advance or €4 on the bus –
Italiatours W italiatours.co.uk. Package deals, city breaks and you  can buy them at the Sun Store beside the
specialist Italian-cuisine tours. Also ofers tailor-made itineraries and can airport’s main exit before walking about 200m
book local events and tours. ahead to the bus stop. Taxis tend to take almost as
Long Travel W long-travel.co.uk. Specialists in southern Italian long as buses to reach the city centre, and cost €18
holidays, with plenty of boutique hotels and villas in Naples, Sorrento, the to the station, €21 to the Molo Beverello and up to
Amalf Coast and Ischia. €27 if you’re going further – to Vomero or Chiaia,
Martin Randall Travel W martinrandall.com. Inclusive, small-group for example. Curreri Viaggi (Wcurreriviaggi.it) runs
cultural packages, including a Pompeii and Herculaneum tour. around eight buses a day – more in high season –
Ramblers Worldwide Holidays W ramblersholidays.co.uk. to Sorrento; they take an hour and a quarter and
One- and two-week walking holidays on the Sorrento peninsula. cost €10 one way. A couple of bus companies run
Sunvil Holidays W sunvil.co.uk. Package holidays and to Salerno (about €4), which is just over an hour
tailor-made tours based at well-chosen hotels in Amalfi, Ravello, from the airport: SITA (Wsitasudtrasporti.it), with
Positano and Sorrento. two buses Monday to Friday except in August; and
Buonobus (Wbuonobus.it), with two buses Monday
US AND CANADA to Saturday.
Exodus Travels W exodustravels.com. Week-long tours of the Amalf
Coast, the Bay of Naples and the islands. By train
The International Kitchen W theinternationalkitchen.com.
Cooking holidays in Ravello, Sorrento and elsewhere, including the Don By train, you’re most likely to arrive at Napoli
Alfonso in Sant’Agata, and the Relais Blu in Termini. Centrale, on the edge of the city centre at Piazza
Italian Connection W italian-connection.com. Walking tours and Garibaldi, the main hub of city and suburban
cooking tours on the Amalf Coast and Capri. transport services; there’s a left luggage ofce in
the station (daily 7am–8pm; €6 for 5hr). Some trains
also pull into Stazione Mergellina, on the opposite
TOP 5 HIKES
side of the city centre, which is connected to Piazza
Bay of Ieranto See p.146
Garibaldi by the underground Metropolitana. For
Monte Faito See p.130
train enquiries phone the English-speaking call
Salto dell’Orso See p.207
centre on T892 021, check Wtrenitalia.com or go Sentiero degli Dei See p.216
to the information booths at Napoli Centrale (daily Sentiero dei Fortini See p.163
7am–9pm) – be prepared to queue.BASICS GETTING AROUND22
completion. Line 2 runs from Gianturco to the east By bus
of the central train station and has fve city centre
stops – at Garibaldi, Piazza Cavour, Montesanto, City, suburban and intercity buses also stop on
Piazza Garibaldi, from where the main companies Amedeo and Mergellina – running out to Pozzuoli
in about half an hour. Slated to open in 2018, Line 6 operate. ATC (T00823 969 057, Watcbus.it) runs
services to Caserta, while SITA (T081 552 2176, will further bolster the city’s underground
newtwork by connecting with Line 1 at Municipio Wsitabus.it) goes to Pompeii, Sorrento, Positano,
Amalf and Salerno. with a string of stops in Chiaia and Mergellina.
In addition, three funiculars (every 10min
7am–10pm) scale the hill of the Vomero: the Funico -
lare di Chiaia, which runs from just above Piazza Getting around
Amedeo to Cimarosa, just below Piazza Vanvitelli;
the Funicolare Centrale, which runs from near the The only way to get around central
Naples and stay sane is to walk. Driving Augusteo station, just of the bottom end of Via
can be a nightmare, and negotiating Toledo, to Piazza Fuga, also a short walk from
the  narrow streets, hectic squares and Vanvitelli; and a third, the Funicolare di Montesanto,
racetrack boulevards on a scooter takes running from the station on Piazza Montesanto to
years of training. In any case, you’d miss Morghen, which is handier for Vomero’s main
a lot by not getting around on foot – museums. There is a fourth funicular, from Mergellina
Naples is the kind of place best to Manzoni, but it’s much less useful, particularly for
appreciated from street level. For longer tourists. The funiculars are either misto – stopping at
journeys – and Naples is a big, spread- all stations – or diretto – non-stop to the top.
out city – there are a number of
Taxisalternatives, both for the city itself and
the bay as a whole; for travel beyond There are fxed taxi fares to some key destinations.
Naples, see p.152 and p.210. For example, the station to the Molo Beverello costs
€13, the station to the airport €18. If you’re not taking
one of these routes, make sure the driver switches on Naples transport
the meter when you start (they sometimes don’t). It
The city transport system is run by ANM (T800 639 is also quite common for the driver to write down
525, Wanm.it). Though crowded and slow, buses the agreed fare before leaving. Fares start at €3.50 for
will get you pretty much everywhere, but are most the initial journey, €6.50 after 10pm and on Sundays;
the minimum fare is €4.50. There are taxi ranks at the useful in areas where Naples’ underground network
– the Metropolitana – has yet to reach. The latter is train station, on Piazza Dante, Piazza del Gesù and
Piazza Trieste e Trento, among other places.the most convenient way of traversing the city
centre (trains roughly every 9min 6am–11pm). Line
1 links the central train station to a handful of useful Around the Bay of Naples
stops around the old town: Università, Municipio
(handy for the port), Toledo, Dante and Museo For trips around the bay in either direction – or
(beside the Archeological Museum); it then indeed to get from one side of the centre to
continues up the hill to connect Vomero. As of the another, there are three more rail systems. The
time of writing, the Duomo stop is also nearing Circumvesuviana runs about every thirty minutes
TICKETS
If you’ll be needing to take more than a single trip on the city’s metro or buses (€1.10) you can
opt instead for a TIC ticket. These are valid on all forms of city transport and cost a fat €1.60
for any number of journeys taken within a 90min period. An all-day ticket costs €4.50, and a
week-long ticket costs €16. Buy any of these tickets in advance from tabacchi, newsstands or
at the stations, and be sure to validate them the frst time you use them. For daily or weekly
tickets, write your name on the back and be prepared to present ID to ticket inspectors on
board. The Campania Artecard, which combines unlimited transport with free entry to
various sights and museums is also worth investing in (see p.32). Full information (in English as
well) is available at Wunicocampania.it.GETTING AROUND BASICS 23
Pomigliano d’Arco, Acerra & Baiano Ottaviano, Poggiomarino & Sarno Pompei & Poggiomarino
Chiaia
S. Pasquale
Arco Mirelli
Piave
FuorigrottaSoccavo
Augusto
Leopardi
MostraTraiano
Campi Flegrei
Zoo-Edenlandia
Cavalleggeri
Aosta
Pisani
Quarto Centro
Quarto
Quarto Officina
TRANSPORT IN NAPLES AND
Piscinola
AROUND THE BAY
Miano
Chiaiano
Reggina Margherita
Casalnuovo
Frullone
Secondigliano
Salice
Colli Aminei
Di Vittorio
Policlinico
Volla
Capodochino
Aeroporto
Rione Alto
Materdei
Botteghelle
Madonnelle
Piazza
Salvator
Montedonzelli
Cavour
Rosa
Tribunale Poggioreale
Museo
Garibaldi/
Medaglie d’Oro Argine Palasport
Centrale
Pianura Centro Direzienale
Montesanto Dante
Quattro Via
Grotte del Sole 1
Vanvitelli
La Trencia Giornate Duomo Gianturco
Villa Visconti
Porta
Licola
Toledo
Nolana
Corso 3 San Giovanni Barra Ponticelli Cercola
2
Università
Marina di Licola V. Emanuele
Bartolo
Municipio
Cuma Longo
San Giovanni-Barra
Piazza
Santa Maria
Amedeo
Pozzuoli Solfatara
del Pozzo
Lido
Fusaro
Mergellina
BagnoliAgnano Terme
Lala
Agnano
4
Via del Monte
Via dei Monaci
Villa delle
Ginestre
Leopardi
Via Viuli
Metropolitana line 1
Trecase
Torre Annunziata Oplonti
Metropolitana line 2
Villa Regina
Metropolitana line 6
Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri
Moregine
Lines under construction 1 Montesanto Funicular: Montesanto–Morghen
Ponte Persica
Circumvesuviana 2 Central Funicular: Augusteo–Piazza Fuga
Pioppaino
Via Nocera
Cumana 3 Chiaia Funicular: Piazza Amedeo–Cimarosa
Castellammare di Stabia
Circumflegrea 4 Mergellina Funicular: Mergellina–Manzoni Pozzano
Scrajo
S. A
n
t
onio
T
orr
ega
v
eta
F
usar
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L
ucrino
A
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P
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zzuoli C
an
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P
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zzuoli
C
appuc
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G
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esuvio De M
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Cr
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ia Liber

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iglio d

Or
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B
osc
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ecase
B
osc
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ealeBASICS GETTING AROUND24
USEFUL TRANSPORT ROUTES
C2 BUSES
#R2 Piazza Garibaldi–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Bovio–Via Depretis–Piazza Municipio–Via San
Carlo–Piazza Trieste e Trento–Piazza Municipio–Via Medina–Via Sanfelice–Corso Umberto
I–Piazza Garibaldi.
#R4 Via Cardarelli–Via Capodimonte–Piazza Dante–Via Depretis–Piazza Dante–Via
Capodimonte–Via Cardarelli.
#140 Capo Posillipo–Via Mergellina–Piazza Vittoria–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Via Santa Lucia–Via
Riviera di Chiaia–Via Mergellina–Capo Posillipo.
#151 Piazza Garibaldi–Via Depretis–Molo Beverello–Piazza Vittoria–Riviera di Chiaia–Via
Fuorigrotta–Riviera di Chiaia–Molo Beverello–Piazza Garibaldi.
METROPOLITANA
Line 1 City-centre stops on Line 1 include Garibaldi, Duomo, Università, Municipio, Toledo,
Dante and Museo, Materdei, Salvator Rosa, Vanvitelli
Line 2 connects with Line 1 at Garibaldi and Cavour (linked by tunnel to Museo), and
continues west to Mergellina, Montestanto, Amadeo, Mergellina and the Campi Flegrei.
FUNICULARS
Funicolare Centrale Piazza Augusteo–Piazza Fuga.
Funicolare di Montesanto Montesanto FS–Via Morghen.
Funicolare di Chiaia Parco Margherita–Via Cimarosa.
Funicolare di Mergellina Mergellina–Manzoni.
BAY TRANSPORT ROUTES
Unicocampania Wunicocampania.it. Campania’s many and varied public transport options
are excellently managed as an integrated network by this organization, and their website is a
good place to fnd information on all the options around the city, bay and beyond.
Circumvesuviana T081 772 2111, Weavsrl.it. A rail line running between Naples and Sorrento,
with many stops around the southern part of the bay, including Ercolano and Pompeii, every
30min, heading in each direction from about 6am to 9.30pm.
Circumfegrea and Ferrovia Cumana T800 001 616, Weavsrl.it. These two lines connect
Naples Montesanto to Fuorigrotta, Agnano, Bagnoli, Pozzuoli, Fusaro, Cumae and Torregaveta.
Departures every 20min.
from its own station on Corso Garibaldi, near Napoli that the entire region is extremely accessible by sea,
Centrale where it also stops, right around the Bay of with plentiful connections both to the islands and
Naples. It stops everywhere as far south as Sorrento, all around the bay and along the Amalf Coast.
which it reaches in about an hour. In the opposite Ferries are cheaper, slower and carry vehicles; as a
foot passenger, catamarans and hydrofoils are often direction, the Ferrovia Cumana heads every ten
minutes from its terminus in Piazza Montesanto the better option but tickets are more expensive.
The main operators to the islands are Alicost, west to Pozzuoli and Baia, as does the
Circumfegrea, which takes a diferent route to Alilauro, Caremar, Medmar, NLG, SNAV, Travelmar
and Coop Sant’Andrea. We’ve included more details the same terminus at Torregaveta. TIC tickets from
Unico Campania (see p.22) are valid for all these of ferry services in the relevant chapters, on p.152
and p.210, while the Naples daily newspaper, suburban lines – just let the vendor know where
you’re heading. Pick them up in advance from Il Mattino, carries timetables for most services.
tabacchi, newsstands and stations, or buy them on
your phone with Unico Campania’s free app. By car, motorbike and scooter
Travelling by car in Naples is fairly challenging: the By ferry and hydrofoil
city centre is crazy and congested and the ring
If you’re doing any travelling at all around the Bay of roads that surround it almost impenetrable. Bear in
Naples, sooner or later you’re going to have to take mind too that the trafc can be heavy on the main
a ferry, hydrofoil or catamaran. The good news is roads down towards Sorrento and along the Amalf ACCOMMODATION BASICS 25
Coast, particularly during the holiday season. TOP 5 HOSTELS
Having said that, there’s nothing like driving the
Agorà Hostel See p.128
Amalf Coast road for a thrill, and renting a scooter
Ave Gratia Plena See p.237
or car either to get around Naples or some of the
Hostel of the Sun See p.83
surrounding towns can be fun – though it’s no Ring Hostel See p.182
place for a beginner. The major chains – including Seven Hostel See p.142
Italian chain Maggiore (Wmaggiore.it) – have
ofces in all the larger cities and at the airport and
train stations; it’s usually cheapest and easiest to Accommodation
book in advance online. Reckon on paying around
€300 per week in high season for a small hatchback, Accdation can be a major cost in
with unlimited mileage, if booked in advance. certain parts of the region, such as the
glitzy Amalf Coast, where hotel prices Drivers over 18 can rent cars in Italy, though some
agencies will only rent to people 21 and over, while can be of the scale. Naples itself has its
drivers under 25 are often required to pay a young fair share of pricey hotels but as it’s not a
driver surcharge. You will need a credit card to act tourist centre it tends to be cheaper than
as a deposit when picking up your vehicle. many other Italian cities, and it’s not
Rules of the road are straightforward: drive on the hard to fnd decent mid-range options as
right; at junctions, where there’s any ambiguity, give well as appealing B&Bs and hostels, and
precedence to vehicles coming from the right; there are often real bargains to be had
observe the speed limits – 50km/h in built-up areas, at weekends.
110km/h on dual carriageways and 130km/h on In high season it is always a good idea to book
autostrada (for camper vans, these limits are 50km/h, rooms in advance, especially in the major resorts.
80km/h and 100km/h respectively); and don’t drink The same applies during religious holidays (notably
and drive. Drivers need to dip their headlights while Easter), and anywhere where a festival is taking place.
using any road outside a built-up area. Most tourist ofces carry full lists of hotels and
Parking can be a problem pretty much every- other accommodation such as B&B and agriturismo
where, and attendants are especially active in options. They may be able to help you fnd a room at
tourist areas. Look for the blue-zone parking short notice, but few have dedicated
accommodaspaces which usually have a maximum stay of one tion services, and you’re usually better of booking
or two hours; they cost around €2 per hour (pay at direct or through a hotel booking site like Wbooking.
meters or buy scratch cards from local tobacconists) com. Always establish the full price of your room –
but are sometimes free after 8pm and on Sundays. including breakfast and other extras (tax and service
Much coveted white-zone spaces (white lines) are charges are usually included) – before you accept it.
free; yellow-zone areas (yellow lines) are reserved It’s often a good idea to call or email a day or so
for residents. Be aware that only local residents are before arrival to confrm your booking. If you’re
allowed to bring cars into Naples’ historic centre going to arrive late in the evening, it’s even worth
(between Via Foria and Corso Garibaldi, and another call that morning to reconfrm.
between Via Toledo and Via Pietro Collela). On the
Amalf Coast you will want to check whether your Hotels
hotel has parking and what it charges; they usually
use small enclosed garages, but these can cost Hotels – or alberghi – in Italy are star-rated from
around €20–25 a day in the main resorts. one to fve. As with most European countries these
Although Italians are by no means the world’s days, prices fuctuate with demand, but as a general
worst drivers, they won’t win any safety prizes rule one- and two-star hotels go for about €80–120
either. The trick is to make it very clear what you’re for a double room; three- and four-star places for
going to do – and then do it. A particular danger
for unaccustomed drivers is the large number of
TOP 5 HOTELS
scooters that can appear suddenly from the blind
Astoria See p.141
spot or dash across junctions and red lights with
Excelsior See p.84
alarming recklessness. Never leave anything visible
Il Convento See p.84
in the car when you’re not using it, including the Il Monastero See p.181
radio. In Naples some rental agencies won’t insure a Marina Riviera See p.224
car parked anywhere except in a locked garage.