England, Picturesque and Descriptive - A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
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England, Picturesque and Descriptive - A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel

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Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel CookThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and withalmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away orre-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License includedwith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.orgTitle: England, Picturesque and DescriptiveA Reminiscence of Foreign TravelAuthor: Joel CookRelease Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29787]Language: English*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND ***Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (Thisfile was produced from images generously made availableby The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)ALTON TOWERS. ALTON TOWERS.ENGLAND,PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE.AREMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVEL.By JOEL COOK,AUTHOR OF "A HOLIDAY TOUR IN EUROPE," "BRIEF SUMMER RAMBLES," ETC.OLD MILL AT SELBORNE. OLD MILL ATSELBORNE.WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.PHILADELPHIA;PORTER AND COATES.CopyrightBy PORTER & COATES,1882.Press of Henry B. Ashmead, Philada.Electrotyped by Westcott & Thomson, Philada.TOJOHN WALTER, Esq.,MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR BERKSHIRE,ANDPROPRIETOR OF THE LONDON TIMES,WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO WELCOME AMERICANSWITH TRUE ENGLISH HOSPITALITY,AND TOGIVE ENGLISHMEN A MORE ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF,AND MORE INTIMATE RELATIONS WITH,THE UNITED STATES,This Work on England,BY AN AMERICAN,IS RESPECTFULLY ...

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Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: England, Picturesque and Descriptive
A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
Author: Joel Cook
Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29787]
Language: English
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND ***
Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
ALTON TOWERS. ALTON TOWERS.
ENGLAND,
PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE.
AREMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVEL.
By JOEL COOK,
AUTHOR OF "A HOLIDAY TOUR IN EUROPE," "BRIEF SUMMER RAMBLES," ETC.
OLD MILL AT SELBORNE. OLD MILL AT
SELBORNE.
WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.
PHILADELPHIA;
PORTER AND COATES.
Copyright
By PORTER & COATES,
1882.
Press of Henry B. Ashmead, Philada.
Electrotyped by Westcott & Thomson, Philada.
TO
JOHN WALTER, Esq.,
MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR BERKSHIRE,
AND
PROPRIETOR OF THE LONDON TIMES,
WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO WELCOME AMERICANS
WITH TRUE ENGLISH HOSPITALITY,
AND TO
GIVE ENGLISHMEN A MORE ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF,
AND MORE INTIMATE RELATIONS WITH,
THE UNITED STATES,This Work on England,
BY AN AMERICAN,
IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED.INTRODUCTION.
No land possesses greater attractions for the American tourist than England. It was the home of his forefathers; its history
is to a great extent the history of his own country; and he is bound to it by the powerful ties of consanguinity, language,
laws, and customs. When the American treads the busy London streets, threads the intricacies of the Liverpool docks
and shipping, wanders along the green lanes of Devonshire, climbs Alnwick's castellated walls, or floats upon the placid
bosom of the picturesque Wye, he seems almost as much at home as in his native land. But, apart from these
considerations of common Anglo-Saxon paternity, no country in the world is more interesting to the intelligent traveller
than England. The British system of entail, whatever may be our opinion of its political and economic merits, has built up
vast estates and preserved the stately homes, renowned castles, and ivy-clad ruins of ancient and celebrated structures,
to an extent and variety that no other land can show. The remains of the abbeys, castles, churches, and ancient fortresses
in England and Wales that war and time together have crumbled and scarred tell the history of centuries, while countless
legends of the olden time are revived as the tourist passes them in review. England, too, has other charms than these.
British scenery, though not always equal in sublimity and grandeur to that displayed in many parts of our own country, is
exceedingly beautiful, and has always been a fruitful theme of song and story.
"The splendor falls on castle-walls
And snowy summits old in story:
The long light shakes across the lakes.
And the wild cataract leaps in glory."
Yet there are few satisfactory and comprehensive books about this land that is so full of renowned memorials of the past
and so generously gifted by Nature. Such books as there are either cover a few counties or are devoted only to local
description, or else are merely guide-books. The present work is believed to be the first attempt to give in attractive form
a book which will serve not only as a guide to those about visiting England and Wales, but also as an agreeable
reminiscence to others, who will find that its pages treat of familiar scenes. It would be impossible to describe everything
within the brief compass of a single book, but it is believed that nearly all the more prominent places in England and
Wales are included, with enough of their history and legend to make the description interesting. The artist's pencil has
also been called into requisition, and the four hundred and eighty-seven illustrations will give an idea, such as no words
can convey, of the attractions England presents to the tourist.
The work has been arranged in eight tours, with Liverpool and London as the two starting-points, and each route
following the lines upon which the sightseer generally advances in the respective directions taken. Such is probably the
most convenient form for the travelling reader, as the author has found from experience, while a comprehensive index will
make reference easy to different localities and persons. Without further introduction it is presented to the public, in the
confident belief that the interest developed in its subject will excuse any shortcomings that may be found in its pages.
Philadelphia, July, 1882.CONTENTS.
I

LIVERPOOL, WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST.
Liverpool—Birkenhead—Knowsley Hall—Chester—Cheshire—Eaton Hall
—Hawarden Castle—Bidston—Congleton—Beeston Castle—The river
Dee—Llangollen—Valle-Crucis Abbey—Dinas Bran—Wynnstay—Pont
Cysylltau—Chirk Castle—Bangor-ys-Coed—Holt—Wrexham—The Sands
o' Dee—North Wales—Flint Castle—Rhuddlan Castle—Mold—Denbigh—
St. Asaph—Holywell—Powys Castle—The Menai Strait—Anglesea— 17
Beaumaris Castle—Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Plas Newydd—
Caernarvon Castle—Ancient Segontium—Conway
Castle—Bettws-yCoed—Mount Snowdon—Port Madoc—Coast of Merioneth—Barmouth—
St. Patrick's Causeway—Mawddach Vale—Cader Idris—Dolgelly—Bala
Lake—Aberystwith—Harlech Castle—Holyhead
II

LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER.
Lancashire—Warrington—Manchester—Furness Abbey—The Ribble—
Stonyhurst—Lancaster Castle—Isle of Man—Castletown—Rusben Castle
—Peele Castle—The Lake Country—Windermere—Lodore Fall—
Derwentwater—Keswick—Greta Hall—Southey, Wordsworth, and 51
Coleridge—Skiddaw—-The Border Castles—Kendal Castle—Brougham
Hall—The Solway—Carlisle Castle—Scaleby Castle—Naworth—Lord
William Howard
III

LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.
The Peak of Derbyshire—Castleton—Bess of Hardwicke—Hardwicke Hall
—Bolsover Castle—The Wye and the Derwent—Buxton—Bakewell—
Haddon Hall—The King of the Peak—Dorothy Vernon—Rowsley—The
Peacock Inn—Chatsworth—The Victoria Regia—Matlock—Dovedale—
Beauchief Abbey—Stafford Castle—Trentham Hall—Tamworth—Tutbury
Castle—Chartley Castle—Alton Towers—Shrewsbury Castle—
Bridgenorth—Wenlock Abbey—Ludlow Castle—The Feathers Inn—
Lichfield Cathedral—Dr. Samuel Johnson—Coventry—Lady Godiva and 70
Peeping Tom—Belvoir Castle—Charnwood Forest—Groby and Bradgate
—Elizabeth Widvile and Lady Jane Grey—Ulverscroft Priory—Grace Dien
Abbey—Ashby de la Zouche—Langley Priory—Leicester Abbey and
Castle—Bosworth Field—Edgehill—Naseby—The Land of Shakespeare
—Stratford-on-Avon—Warwick—Kenilworth—Birmingham—Boulton and
Watt—Fotheringhay Castle—Holmby House—Bedford Castle—John
Bunyan—Woburn Abbey and the Russells—Stowe—Whaddon Hall—
Great Hampden—Creslow House
IV

THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON.
The Thames Head—Cotswold Hills—Seven Springs—Cirencester—
Cheltenham—Sudeley Castle—Chavenage—Shifford—Lechlade—
Stanton Harcourt—Cumnor Hall—Fair Rosamond—Godstow Nunnery—
Oxford—Oxford Colleges—Christ Church—Corpus Christi—Merton—Oriel
—All Souls—University—Queen's—Magdalen—Brasenose—New College
—Radcliffe Library—Bodleian Library—Lincoln—Exeter—Wadham—
Keble—Trinity—Balliol—St. John's—Pembroke—Oxford Churches—
Oxford Castle—Carfax Conduit—Banbury—Broughton Castle—
Woodstock—Marlborough—Blenheim—Minster Lovel—Bicester—
Eynsham—Abingdon—Radley—Bacon, Rich, and Holt—Clifton-Hampden 137
—Caversham—Reading—Maidenhead—Bisham Abbey—Vicar of Bray—
Eton College—Windsor Castle—Magna Charta Island—Cowey Stakes—
Ditton—Twickenham—London—Fire Monument—St. Paul's Cathedral—
Westminster Abbey—The Tower—Lollards and Lambeth—Bow Church—
St. Bride's—Whitehall—Horse Guards—St. James Palace—Buckingham
Palace—Kensington Palace—Houses of Parliament—Hyde Park—MarbleArch—Albert Memorial—South Kensington Museum—Royal Exchange—
Bank of England—Mansion House—Inns of Court—British Museum—
Some London Scenes—The Underground Railway—Holland House—
Greenwich—Tilbury Fort—The Thames Mouth
V

LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED.
Harrow—St. Albans—Verulam—Hatfield House—Lord Burleigh—
Cassiobury—Knebworth—Great Bed of Ware—The River Cam—Audley
End—Saffron Walden—Newport—Nell Gwynne—Littlebury—Winstanley—
Harwich—Cambridge—Trinity and St. John's Colleges—Caius College—
Trinity Hall—The Senate House—University Library—Clare College—
Great St. Mary's Church—King's College—Corpus Christi College—St.
Catharine's College—Queens' College—The Pitt Press—Pembroke
College—Peterhouse—Fitzwilliam Museum—Hobson's Conduit—
Downing College—Emmanuel College—Christ's College—Sidney-Sussex
College—The Round Church—Magdalene College—Jesus College—
Trumpington—The Fenland—Bury St. Edmunds—Hengrave Hall—Ely—
Peterborough—Crowland Abbey—Guthlac—Norwich Castle and
Cathedral—Stamford—Burghley House—George Inn—Grantham—Lincoln 224
—Nottingham—Southwell—Sherwood Forest—Robin Hood—The
Dukeries—Thoresby Hall—Clumber Park—Welbeck Abbey—Newstead
Abbey—Newark—Hull—Wilberforce—Beverley—Sheffield—Wakefield—
Leeds—Bolton Abbey—The Strid—Ripon Cathedral—Fountains Abbey—
Studley Royal—Fountains Hall—York—Eboracum—York Minster—
Clifford's Tower—Castle Howard—Kirkham Priory—Flamborough Head—
Scarborough—Whitby Abbey—Durham Cathedral and Castle—St.
Cuthbert—The Venerable Bede—Battle of Neville's
Cross—Chester-leStreet—Lumley Castle—Newcastle-upon-Tyne—Hexham—Alnwick Castle
—Hotspur and the Percies—St. Michael's Church—Hulne Priory—Ford
Castle—Flodden Field—The Tweed—Berwick—Holy Isle—Lindisfarne—
Bamborough—Grace Darling
VI

LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN.
The Cotswolds—The River Severn—Gloucester—Berkeley Castle—New
Inn—Gloucester Cathedral—Lampreys—Tewkesbury; its Mustard, Abbey,
and Battle—Worcester; its Battle—Charles II.'s Escape—Worcester
Cathedral—The Malvern Hills—Worcestershire Beacon—Herefordshire
Beacon—Great Malvern—St. Anne's Well—The River Wye—Clifford
Castle—Hereford—Old Butcher's Row—Nell Gwynne's Birthplace—Ross
—The Man of Ross—Ross Church and its Trees—Walton Castle—
Goodrich Castle—Forest of Dean—Coldwell—Symond's Vat—The
Dowards—Monmouth—Kymin Hill—Raglan Castle—Redbrook—St.
Briard Castle—Tintern Abbey—The Wyncliff—Wyntour's Leap—Chepstow 337
Castle—The River Monnow—The Golden Valley—The Black Mountains—
Pontrilas Court—Ewias Harold—Abbey Dore—The Scyrrid Vawr—
Wormridge—Kilpeck—Oldcastle—Kentchurch—Grosmont—The Vale of
Usk—Abergavenny—Llanthony Priory—Walter Savage
Landor—Capel-yFfyn—Newport—Penarth Roads—Cardiff—The Rocking-Stone—Llandaff
—Caerphilly Castle and its Leaning Tower—Swansea—The Mumbles—
Oystermouth Castle—Neath Abbey—Caermarthen—Tenby—Manorbeer
Castle—Golden Grove—Pembroke—Milford—Haverfordwest—Milford
Haven—Pictou Castle—Carew Castle
VII

LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END.
Virginia Water—Sunninghill—Ascot—Wokingham—Bearwood—The
London Times—White Horse Hill—Box Tunnel—Salisbury—Salisbury
Plain—Old Sarum—Stonehenge—Amesbury—Wilton House—The Earls
of Pembroke—Carpet-making—Bath—William Beckford—Fonthill—
Bristol—William Canynge—Chatterton—Clifton—Brandon Hill—Well—The
Mendips—Jocelyn—Beckington—Ralph of Shrewsbury—Thomas Ken—
The Cheddar Cliffs—The Wookey Hole—The Black Down—The Isle of
Avelon—Glastonbury—Weary-all Hill—Sedgemoor—The Isle of Athelney
—Bridgewater—Oldmixon—Monmouth's Rebellion—Weston Zoyland—King Alfred—Sherborne—Sir Walter Raleigh—The Coast of Dorset—
Poole—Wareham—Isle of Purbeck—Corfe Castle—The Foreland—
Swanage—St. Aldhelm's Head—Weymouth—Portland Isle and Bill—The
Channel Islands—Jersey—Corbière Promontory—Mount Orgueil—
Alderney—Guernsey—Castle Comet—The Southern Coast of Devon—
Abbotsbury—Lyme Regis—Axminster—Sidmouth—Exmouth—Exeter—
384
William, Prince of Orange—Exeter Cathedral—Bishop Trelawney—
Dawlish—Teignmouth—Hope's Nose—Babbicombe Bay—Anstis Cove—
Torbay—Torquay—Brixham—Dartmoor—The River Dart—Totnes—Berry
Pomeroy Castle—Dartmouth—The River Plym—The Dewerstone—
Plympton Priory—Sir Joshua Reynolds—Catwater Haven—Plymouth—
Stonehouse—Devonport—Eddystone Lighthouse—Tavistock Abbey—
Buckland Abbey—Lydford Castle—The Northern Coast of Devon—
Exmoor—Minehead—Dunster—Dunkery Beacon—Porlock Bay—The
River Lyn—Oare—Lorna Doone—Jan Ridd—Lynton—Lynmouth—Castle
Rock—The Devil's Cheese-Ring—Combe Martin—Ilfracombe—Norte
Point—Morthoe—Barnstable—Bideford—Clovelly—Lundy Island—
Cornwall—Tintagel—Launceston—Liskeard—Fowey—Lizard Peninsula—
Falmouth—Pendennis Castle—Helston—Mullyon Cove—Smuggling—
Kynance Cove—The Post-Office—Old Lizard Head—Polpeor—St.
Michael's Mount—Penzance—Pilchard Fishery—Penwith—Land's End
VIII

LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST.
The Surrey Side—The Chalk Downs—Guildford—The Hog's Back—Albury
Down—Archbishop Abbot—St. Catharine's Chapel—St. Martha's Chapel
—Albury Park—John Evelyn—Henry Drummond—Aldershot Camp—Leith
Hill—Redland's Wood—Holmwood Park—Dorking—Weller and the
Marquis of Granby Inn—Deepdene—Betchworth Castle—The River Mole
—Boxhill—The Fox and Hounds—The Denbies—Ranmore Common—
Battle of Dorking—Wotton Church—Epsom—Reigate—Pierrepoint House
—Longfield—The Weald of Kent—Goudhurst—Bedgebury Park—
Kilndown—Cranbrook—Bloody Baker's Prison—Sissinghurst—Bayham
Abbey—Tunbridge Castle—Tunbridge Wells—Penshurst—Sir Philip
Sidney—Hever Castle—Anne Boleyn—Knole—Leeds Castle—Tenterden
Steeple and the Goodwin Sands—Rochester—Gad's Hill—Chatham—
Canterbury Cathedral—St. Thomas à Becket—Falstaff Inn—Isle of Thanet
—Ramsgate—Margate—North Foreland—The Cinque Ports—Sandwich
—Rutupiæ—Ebbsfleet—Goodwin Sands—Walmer Castle—South
Foreland—Dover—Shakespeare's Cliff—Folkestone—Hythe—Romney— 463
Dungeness—Rye—Winchelsea—Hastings—Pevensey—Hailsham—
Hurstmonceux Castle—Beachy Head—Brighton—The Aquarium—The
South Downs—Dichling Beacon—Newhaven—Steyning—Wiston Manor—
Chanctonbury Ring—Arundel Castle—Chichester—Selsey Bill—
Goodwood—Bignor—Midhurst—Cowdray—Dunford House—Selborne—
Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and church—Greatham Church
—Winchester—The New Forest—Lyndhurst—Minstead Manor—Castle
Malwood—Death of William Rufus—Rufus's Stone—Beaulieu Abbey—
Brockenhurst—Ringwood—Lydington—Christchurch—Southampton—
Netley Abbey—Calshot Castle—The Solent—Portsea Island—Portsmouth
—Gosport—Spithead—The Isle of Wight—High Down—Alum Bay—
Yarmouth—Cowes—Osborne House—Ryde—Bratling—Sandown—
Shanklin Chine—Bonchurch—The Undercliff—Ventnor—Niton—St.
Lawrence Church—St. Catharine's Down—Blackgang Chine—
Carisbrooke Castle—Newport—Freshwater—Brixton—The Needles
MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH. MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH.LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Alton Towers F r o n t i s p i e c e .
The Old Mill, Selborne T i t l e - P a g e .
A f t e r
Market-place, Peterborough
C o n t e n t s .
The Pottergate, Alnwick 16
Perch Rock Light 17
St. George's Hall, Liverpool 19
Chester Cathedral, Exterior 21
Chester Cathedral, Interior 21
Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester 22
Ancient Front, Chester 22
God's Providence House, Chester 23
Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester 23
Old Lamb Row, Chester 23
Stanley House, Front, Chester 24
Stanley House, Rear, Chester 24
Phœnix Tower, Chester 25
Water Tower, Chester 25
Abbey Gale, Chester 26
Ruins of St. John's Chapel, Chester 26
Plas Newydd, Llangollen 28
Ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey 29
Wynnstay 30
Pont Cysylltau 30
Wrexham Tower 31
The Roodee, from the Railway-bridge, Chester 32
The "Sands o' Dee" 33
Menai Strait 36
Beaumaris Castle 37
Bangor Cathedral 37
Caernarvon Castle 39
Conway Castle, from the Road to Llanrwst 40
Falls of the Conway 41
Swallow Falls 42
Llanrwst Bridge 43
Barmouth 44
Barmouth Estuary 45
Cader Idris, on the Taly-slyn Ascent 46
Rhayadr-y-Mawddach 46
Dolgelly 47
Owen Glendower's Parliament House, Dolgelly 47
Lower Bridge, Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 48
Bala Lake 48
Aberystwith 49
Harlech Castle 50
Old Market, Warrington 51
Manchester Cathedral, from the South-east 53
Assize Courts, Manchester 54
Royal Exchange, Manchester 55
Furness Abbey 56
Castle Square, Lancaster 58
Bradda Head, Isle of Man 59
Kirk Bradden, Isle of Man 59
Rhenass Waterfall, Isle of Man 60Castle Rushen, Isle of Man 61
Peele Castle, Isle of Man 63
Glimpse of Derwentwater, from Scafell 64
Falls of Lodore, Derwentwater 65
Road through the Cathedral Close, Carlisle 68
View on the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 69
Peveril Castle, Castleton 71
Hardwicke Hall 72
Hardwicke Hall, Elizabethan Staircase 73
Bolsover Castle 74
The Crescent, Buxton 75
Bakewell Church 76
Haddon Hall, from the Wye 77
Haddon Hall, Entrance to Banquet-hall 78
Haddon Hall, the Terrace 79
The Peacock Inn from the Road 81
Chatsworth House, from the South-west 81
Chatsworth House, Door to State Drawing-room 82
Chatsworth House, State Drawing-room 82
Chatsworth House, State Bedroom 83
Chatsworth House, the Sculpture-gallery 84
Chatsworth House, Gateway to Stable 85
High Tor, Matlock 85
The Straits, Dovedale 86
Banks of the Dove 86
Tissington Spires, Dovedale 87
Trentham Hall 89
Trentham Hall—on the Terrace 90
Shrewsbury Castle, from the Railway-station 93
Head-quarters of Henry VII. on his Way to Bosworth Field, Shrewsbury 94
On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury 94
Bridgenorth, from near Oldbury 95
Bridgenorth, Keep of the Castle 95
Bridgenorth, House where Bishop Percy was born 96
Lodge of Much Wenlock Abbey 96
Wenlock 97
Ludlow Castle 98
Ludlow Castle, Entrance to the Council-chamber 99
The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow 100
Lichfield Cathedral, West Front 101
Lichfield Cathedral, Interior, looking West 101
Lichfield Cathedral, Rear View 102
Dr. Johnson's Birthplace, Lichfield 103
Coventry Gateway 105
Coventry 106
Ruins of Bradgate House 108
Ruins of Ulverscroft Priory 109
Ruins of Grace Dieu Abbey 110
Leicester Abbey 111
Gateway, Newgate Street, Leicester 112
Edgehill 113
Edgehill, Mill at 115
Church and Market-hall, Market Harborough 117
Shakespeare's House, Stratford 118
Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery 119
Warwick Castle 120
Leicester's Hospital, Warwick 122