In the Forbidden Land
249 Pages
English
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In the Forbidden Land

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249 Pages
English

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Project Gutenberg's In the Forbidden Land, by Arnold Henry Savage LandorThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and withalmost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away orre-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License includedwith this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.netTitle: In the Forbidden LandAuthor: Arnold Henry Savage LandorRelease Date: August 1, 2007 [EBook #22210]Language: English*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND ***Produced by Michael Ciesielski and the Online DistributedProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.netIN THE FORBIDDEN LANDSPINECOVERIN THE FORBIDDEN LANDTimes: "THE ORDINARY READER WILL BE STRUCK WITH THE PORTRAITS, WHICH SHOW THAT IN A VERY FEW WEEKS HE MUST HAVE ENDURED ALIFETIME OF CONCENTRATED MISERY. OTHER TRAVELLERS, NO DOUBT, HAVE GONE FURTHER, BUT NONE WHO HAVE ESCAPED WITH THEIR LIVESHAVE FARED WORSE.... MR. LANDOR TELLS A PLAIN AND MANLY TALE, WITHOUT AFFECTATION OR BRAVADO. IT IS A BOOK, CERTAINLY, THAT WILLbe read with interest and excitement."Athenæum: "THE ACCOUNT HE HAS WRITTEN OF HIS TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IS VIVID AND OFTEN FASCINATING. HIS FREQUENT NOTICESOF CURIOUS CUSTOMS ARE FULL OF INTEREST, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OR SKETCHES TAKEN ON THE SPOT RENDERthis one of the most attractive records of travel published recently."Guardian: "LIFE, ACCORDING TO MR. LANDOR, HAS 'BARELY A DULL MOMENT,' AND THE GLOOMIEST OF US WILL ...

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Project Gutenberg's In the Forbidden Land, by Arnold Henry Savage Landor This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: In the Forbidden Land Author: Arnold Henry Savage Landor Release Date: August 1, 2007 [EBook #22210] Language: English *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND *** Produced by Michael Ciesielski and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND SPINECOVER IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND Times: "THE ORDINARY READER WILL BE STRUCK WITH THE PORTRAITS, WHICH SHOW THAT IN A VERY FEW WEEKS HE MUST HAVE ENDURED A LIFETIME OF CONCENTRATED MISERY. OTHER TRAVELLERS, NO DOUBT, HAVE GONE FURTHER, BUT NONE WHO HAVE ESCAPED WITH THEIR LIVES HAVE FARED WORSE.... MR. LANDOR TELLS A PLAIN AND MANLY TALE, WITHOUT AFFECTATION OR BRAVADO. IT IS A BOOK, CERTAINLY, THAT WILL be read with interest and excitement." Athenæum: "THE ACCOUNT HE HAS WRITTEN OF HIS TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IS VIVID AND OFTEN FASCINATING. HIS FREQUENT NOTICES OF CURIOUS CUSTOMS ARE FULL OF INTEREST, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OR SKETCHES TAKEN ON THE SPOT RENDER this one of the most attractive records of travel published recently." Guardian: "LIFE, ACCORDING TO MR. LANDOR, HAS 'BARELY A DULL MOMENT,' AND THE GLOOMIEST OF US WILL ADMIT THAT THIS IS AT LEAST true of that part of life which may be devoted to the reading of his latest book." World: "HE HAS CONTRIVED, EVEN IN CIRCUMSTANCES OF CRUEL DISADVANTAGE, TO PRESENT A WONDERFULLY MINUTE AND IMPRESSIVE SERIES OF PICTURES OF THE LIFE, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE TIBETANS. NO LESS POWERFUL AND VIVID ARE HIS DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SCENERY AND NATURAL PHENOMENA OF THE FORBIDDEN LAND, WHICH ARE REINFORCED BY AN AMPLE SERIES OF ILLUSTRATIONS THAT ATTAIN A HIGH STANDARD OF ARTISTIC EXCELLENCE. MR. LANDOR'S BITTER EXPERIENCES HAVE HAD AT LEAST THE ADVANTAGE OF PROVIDING him with material for the most absorbing travel book produced within recent times." Daily Telegraph: "MR. LANDOR'S STORY IS ONE OF THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY TALES OF MODERN TIMES, YET EVEN THE MOST SCEPTICAL READER WILL ADMIRE THE VIGOUR WITH WHICH IT IS TOLD, AND THE ENDURANCE WITH WHICH THE EXPLORER AND HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS BORE up against their savage captors." Standard: "THE BOOK FASCINATES ... THE VERBAL PICTURES IT GIVES ARE EXTREMELY VIVID, AND THE EFFECT OF THEM IS GREATLY HEIGHTENED BY THE NUMEROUS DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR. MR. LANDOR IS AN ARTIST AS WELL AS TRAVELLER AND WRITER, AND HE KNOWS HOW TO USE HIS PENCIL AND BRUSH TO EMPHASISE HIS LETTER-PRESS. WHATEVER MAY BE SAID OF THE WISDOM of his enterprises, his book is certainly a remarkable contribution to the literature of modern travel." Daily News: "THE GREAT LIBRARY OF TRAVEL IN THE EAST HAS NOT RECEIVED FOR MANY A YEAR A MORE IMPORTANT ADDITION THAN THIS bright, picturesque, and instructive volume." Daily Chronicle: "MR. LANDOR IS AN ARTIST AS WELL AS A WRITER, AND THIS HANDSOME VOLUME IS MOST LAVISHLY ILLUSTRATED WITH SKETCHES AND PHOTOGRAPHS. APART FROM ITS INTENSE INTEREST AS A STORY OF STIRRING ADVENTURE, THE BOOK IS A VALUABLE STOREHOUSE OF INFORMATION ON SOUTHERN TIBET AND ITS PEOPLE, AND ON THE LITTLE KNOWN INDIAN DISTRICT OF NORTHERN KUMAON. This is surely a record of devotion to geographical science such as no previous explorer has been able to show." A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR AND HIS TWO FAITHFUL SERVANTS A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR AND HIS TWO FAITHFUL SERVANTS IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY IN TIBET CAPTURE BY THE TIBETAN AUTHORITIES IMPRISONMENT, TORTURE, AND ULTIMATE RELEASE BY A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR AUTHOR OF "COREA, OR THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM," "ALONE WITH THE HAIRY AINU," ETC. also various official documents, including the enquiry and report by j. larkin, esq., appointed by the government of india With Two Hundred and Fifty-one Illustrations And a Map LONDON WILLIAM HEINEMANN 1899 First Edition (2 Vols. 8vo), October 1898 New Impression (2 Vols. 8vo), November 1898 New Edition (1 Vol. 8vo), May 1899 This Edition enjoys copyright in all Countries signatory to the Berne Treaty, and is not to be imported into the United States of America. I DEDICATE THIS BOOK TO MY FATHER & MOTHER PREFACE IN THIS BOOK I HAVE SET DOWN THE RECORD OF A JOURNEY IN TIBET UNDERTAKEN BY ME DURING THE SPRING, SUMMER AND AUTUMN OF 1897. IT IS ILLUSTRATED PARTLY FROM MY PHOTOGRAPHS AND PARTLY FROM SKETCHES MADE BY ME ON THE SPOT. ONLY AS REGARDS THE TORTURE SCENES HAVE I HAD TO DRAW FROM MEMORY, BUT IT WILL BE EASILY CONCEDED THAT THEIR IMPRESSION MUST BE VIVID ENOUGH with me. THE MAP IS MADE ENTIRELY FROM MY SURVEYS OF AN AREA OF TWELVE THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED SQUARE MILES IN TIBET PROPER. IN CHAPTER VI. THE ALTITUDES OF SUCH HIGH PEAKS IN INDIA AS NANDA DEVI AND OTHERS ARE TAKEN FROM THE TRIGONOMETRICAL SURVEY, AND SO ARE THE POSITIONS FIXED BY ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS OF THE STARTING AND TERMINATING POINTS OF MY SURVEYS at the places where I entered and left Tibet. IN THE ORTHOGRAPHY OF GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES I HAVE ADOPTED THE COURSE ADVISED BY THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY—VIZ., TO GIVE THE NAMES THEIR TRUE SOUND AS THEY ARE LOCALLY PRONOUNCED, AND I HAVE MADE NO EXCEPTION EVEN FOR THE GRAND AND poetic "Himahlya" which is in English usually distorted into the unmusical and unromantic word "Himalayas." I submit with all deference the following geographical results of my expedition: The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division of the Mansarowar and Rakstal Lakes. The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and the pictures of some of the great Himahlyan glaciers. THE VISIT TO AND THE FIXING OF THE POSITION OF THE TWO PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA, NEVER BEFORE REACHED BY A European. The fact that with only two men I was able to travel for so long in the most populated part of Tibet. IN ADDITION TO THE ABOVE, I AM GLAD TO STATE THAT OWING TO THE PUBLICITY WHICH I GAVE ON MY RETURN TO THE OUTRAGEOUS TIBETAN ABUSES TAKING PLACE ON BRITISH SOIL, THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA AT LAST, IN THE SUMMER OF 1898, NOTIFIED THE TIBETAN AUTHORITIES THAT THEY WILL NO LONGER BE PERMITTED TO COLLECT LAND REVENUE FROM BRITISH SUBJECTS THERE. THIS FACT GIVES ME SPECIAL SATISFACTION, BECAUSE OF THE EXCEPTIONAL COURTESY AND KINDNESS BESTOWED ON ME BY OUR MOUNTAIN TRIBESMEN, THE Shokas. THE GOVERNMENT REPORT OF THE OFFICIAL INVESTIGATION OF MY CASE, AS WELL AS OTHER DOCUMENTS SUBSTANTIATING THE DETAILS OF my narrative, are printed in an appendix. A. H. S. L. May 1899 CONTENTS Chapter Page PREFACE ix LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxii I FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL 1-3 Loads—A set of useful pack-saddle cases—Provisions and scientific outfit—Clothes and shoes— II 4-10 Medicines—Under way—The first march—Servants—How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing III Pithoragarh—Fakir women—A well-ventilated abode—Askote—The Rajiwar and his people 11-16 The Raots—A slippery journey—Superstitious notions—Anger and jealousy—Friends—To the IV 17-26 homes of the savages—Photography—Habitations A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake—The spirits of the mountains—A safeguard against them—Tibetan V 27-34 encampments—The Rajiwar—A waterfall—Watermills Highways and trade routes—The Darma route—The Dholi River—A rough track connecting two VI valleys—Glaciers—Three ranges and their peaks—Altitudes—Darma, Johar, and the Painkhanda 35-40 Parganas—The highest peak in the British Empire—Natural boundaries The word Bhot and its meaning—Tibetan influence—Tibetan abuses—The ever-helpful Chanden VII Sing—The first Shoka village—Chanden Sing in disgrace—Weaving-loom—Fabrics—All's well that 41-45 ends well Prayers by wind-power—Photography under difficulties—A night of misery—Drying up—Two lady VIII 46-52 missionaries—Their valuable work—An interesting dinner party—An "eccentric" man's tea party Discouraging reports—A steep ascent—How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"—Hard at IX 53-56 work—Promoted in rank—Collapse in a gale of wind—Time and labour lost The Nerpani, or "waterless track"—Exaggerated accounts—A long shot—The rescue of two coolies X 57-62 —Picturesque Nature—An involuntary shower-bath—The Chai Pass A series of misfortunes—Tibetan atrocities on British subjects—Tibetan exactions—Revolting cruelty XI 63-68 to one of her Majesty's subjects—Assault on a British officer—A smart British Envoy XII Tibetan threats—My birthday—Ravenous dogs—A big dinner—Shoka hospitality 69-73 XIII Shoka hospitality—How I obtained much information—On a reconnoitring trip—A terrible slide 74-80 A palaver—To see is to believe—Dangers and perils on the snow and ice—Thar and Ghural— XIV 81-85 Stalking—A tiring climb to 16,000 feet—The collapse of a snow bridge An earthquake—Curious notions of the natives—A Shoka tailor and his ways—The arrival of silver XV 86-91 cash—Two rocks in the Kali—Arrogance of a Tibetan spy The Rambang—Shoka music—Love-songs—Doleful singing—Abrupt ending—Solos—Smoking— XVI 92-97 When marriage is contemplated—The Delang—Adultery—Punishment FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul—Cremation—Amusement of the dead man's soul—The lay figure—Feasting—Doleful dance—Transmigration of the soul—Expensive ceremonies—Offerings XVII before the lay figure—Dancing and contortions—Martial dances—Solo dances—The animal to be 98-110 sacrificed and the lay figure—Chasing the animal from the village—Tearing out its heart—The yak driven over a precipice—Head shaving—A sacred cave Touching Shoka farewell—Feelings curiously expressed—Sobs and tears—The start—A funereal XVIII procession—Distressed father and mother—Kachi and Dola the worse for drink—Anxious moments 111-115 —The bridge destroyed A dangerous track—Perilous passage—A curious bridge over a precipice—Pathetic Shoka custom XIX 116-119 —Small misadventures—A grand reception—Tea for all tastes Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches—What misdeeds a photographic camera can do— XX 120-122 Weighing, dividing, and packing provisions—Two extra men wanted—The last friendly faces The Kuti Castle—Under way—Our first disaster—A cheerful and a sulky coolie—Mansing—A XXI brigand—A strange medley of followers—A character—Tailoring—Fields of stones—Troublesome 123-130 rivers—The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass—Sense of humour—Pleased with small comforts Want of fuel—Cooking under difficulty—Mansing lost and found—Saved from summary justice— XXII 131-136Tibetan visitors—We purchase sheep—The snow-line—Cold streams—The petrified chapati and human hand XXIII The scout's return—A small exploring party—The Mangshan glacier 137-140 Snow and troublesome débris—The doctor's sufferings—Kachi disabled—Further trials—A weird XXIV 141-147 apparition—Delirium—All safe—The descent The sources of the Kuti River—The Lumpiya glacier—The summit of the range—Bird's-eye view of XXV 148-153 Tibet—Rubso frozen almost to death—The Lumpiya Pass—Two coolies in distress Mysterious footprints—Brigand or spy?—Passes and tracks—Intense cold—No fuel—A high flat XXVI 154-157 plateau—Fuel at last!—Two spies in disguise—What they took us for Lama Chokden—A Tibetan guard—The sacred Kelas—Reverence of my men for the sacred XXVII 158-161 XXVII 158-161 Mountain—Trying hard to keep friends with the gods—Obos—Water flowing to us An extensive valley—Kiang, or wild horse—Their strange ways—The Gyanema fort—Apprehension XXVIII at our appearance—A parley—"Cut off our heads!"—Revolt and murder contemplated—Hypocritica 162-166 ways of Tibetan officials—Help summoned from everywhere—Preparing for war Arrival of a high official—The Barca Tarjum—A tedious palaver—The Tarjum's anxiety—Permission XXIX 167-173 to proceed—A traitor—Entreated to retrace our steps—Thirty armed horsemen—A pretty speech Spying our movements—Disguised sepoys—A gloomy look-out—Troublesome followers—Another XXX 174-177 march back—An amusing incident An attempt that failed—A resolution—A smart Shoka lad—The plucky Chanden Sing proposes to XXXI 178-181 accompany me—Mansing the leper becomes my servant's servant "Devil's Camp"—A fierce snowstorm—Abandoning our tents—Dangers and perils in prospect— XXXII Collecting the men—One load too many!—Another man wanted and found—A propitious night— 182-186 Good-bye to Wilson—The escape—Brigands S.E. wind—Hungry and half frozen—Lakes at 18,960 feet above sea-level—Cold food at high XXXIII 187-191 altitudes—Buried in snow—Mansing's sufferings—Fuel at last Dacoits—No nonsense allowed—A much-frequented region—A plateau—The Gyanema-Taklakot XXXIV track—A dangerous spot—Soldiers waiting for us—Burying our baggage—Out of provisions—A fall 192-197 into the Gakkon River—A bright idea—Nettles our only diet All that remained of my men's provisions—The plan to enter the fort—Appearance of yaks—A band XXXV 198-201 of brigands—Erecting fortifications—Changes in the temperature—Soldiers in search of us "Terror Camp"—Two more messengers leave camp—A tribe of Dogpas—A strange sahib—Our messengers return from Taklakot—The account and adventures of their mission—In great distress— XXXVI 202-206 Two fakirs who suffered through me—Five hundred rupees offered for my head—The Shokas want to abandon me—A plot—How it failed A Tibetan guard's encampment—Nattoo volunteers to be a guide—Treachery and punishment of the XXXVII Shokas—All ways forward barred to me—Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at night— 207-210 Mansing again lost—A marvellous phenomenon—Sufferings of my men—Severe cold Night marching—The Lafan and Mafan Lakes—Tize, the sacred Kelas—Rhubarb—Butterflies—A XXXVIII 211-216 hermit Lama—More Dacoits—Surrounded by them—Routed Spied and followed by robbers—Jogpas' hospitality—Hares—Tibetan charms resisted—Attempt to XXXIX 217-219 snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands—The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes More robbers—The friends of Tibetan authorities—A snap-shot—A meek lot—Prepossessing XL 220-224 female and her curious ways—The purchase of two yaks Tibetan coats, hats, and boots—Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare— XLI Ornamentations—Manner and speech—Ignorance and superstition—Way of eating—Jogpa women 225-230 and children—Head-dress A Daku's strange ideas—The ridge between the two lakes—Black tents—Confronting the two lakes XLII 231-234 —A chain of high peaks—Gombas—Change in the weather The Langa Tsangpo—A terrific storm—Drenched to the skin—Heavy marching—Against the gods— XLIII 235-238 Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and village—A bark!—Arrival at last—Gentle tapping—Under a roof The interior of a serai—Vermin—Fish, local jewellery, and pottery for sale—Favourite shapes and XLIV 239-241 patterns—How pottery is made Friendly Lamas—Chanden Sing and Mansing purified—Mansing's sarcasm—Pilgrims to XLV 242-244 Mansarowar and their privileges—For luck!—Outside the Gomba Entering the Lamasery—The Lama's dwelling—Novices—Were we in a trap?—Images—Oblations XLVI —Urghin—The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution—Musical instruments, books, &c.— 245-248 God and the Trinity—Heaven and hell—A mystery The Jong Pen's statements regarding me—Sects of Lamas—Lamaseries—Government allowance —Ignorance of the crowds—How Lamas are recruited—Lamas, novices, and menials—Dances and XLVII 249-256 hypnotism—Infallibility—Celibacy and vice—Sculptors—Prayer-wheels and revolving instruments— Nunneries—Human bones for eating vessels and musical instruments—Blood-drinking Illnesses and remedies—Curious theories about fever—Evil spirits—Blacksmith and dentist— XLVIII Exorcisms—Surgical operations—Massage and cupping—Incurable illnesses—Deformities— 257-264 Deafness—Fits and insanity—Melancholia—Suicides A Tibetan medicine-man—Lumbago, and a startling cure for it—Combustible fuses—Fire and butter XLIX 265-267 —Prayers, agony and distortions—Strange ideas on medicine Tucker village—Chokdens—Houses—Flying prayers—Soldiers or robbers?—A stampede—Fresh L 268-270 provisions—Disappointment—Treachery—Shokas leave me—Observations—Five men, all counted! The start with a further reduced party—A reconnaissance—Natural fortress—Black tents and animals LI —On the wrong tack—Slings and their use—A visit to a Tibetan camp—Mistaken for brigands— 271-275 Bargaining and begging What the men were like—Their timidity—Leather work—Metal work—Blades and swords—Filigree LII 276-279 —Saddles and harness—Pack saddles Rain in torrents—A miserable night—A gorge—A gigantic inscription—Sheltered under boulders—A Rain in torrents—A miserable night—A gorge—A gigantic inscription—Sheltered under boulders—A LIII 280-282 fresh surprise—Only two followers left My time fully occupied—Our own yak drivers—A heavy blow—Along the stream—Soldiers in pursuit LIV 283-286 of us—Discovered An interview—Peace or war?—Gifts and the scarf of friendship—The Kata—The end of a friendly LV 287-289 visit LVI Rain in torrents—A swampy plain—The sun at last—Our yaks stolen and recovered 290-294 Travelling Tibetans—Over a high pass—A friendly meeting—A proffered banquet—Ascent to 20,000 LVII 295-297 feet—Looking for the Gunkyo Lake—Surprised by a phantom army A sleepless night—Watching our enemy—A picturesque sight—A messenger—Soldiers from LVIII 298-301 Lhassa—Taken for a Kashmeree—The Gunkyo Lake In pleasant company—Unpopularity of the Lamas—Soldiers—Towards the Maium Pass—Grass— LIX 302-305 Threats—Puzzled Tibetans—The Maium Pass—Obos The Maium Pass—Into the Yutzang province—Its capital—The Doktol province—Orders disregarded LX —The sources of the Brahmaputra—Change in the climate—The valley of the Brahmaputra— 306-308 Running risks Expecting trouble—Along the Brahmaputra—A thunderstorm—A dilemma—A dangerous river— LXI 309-312 Swamped—Saved—Night disturbers—A new friend Leaving the course of the river—A pass—An arid plain—More vanishing soldiers—Another river—A LXII 313-315 mani wall—Mirage?—A large Tibetan encampment—The chain of mountains north of us LXIII 316-320A commotion—An invitation declined—The tents—Delicacies—The Chokseh LXIV Refusal to sell food—Women—Their looks and characteristics—The Tchukti—A Lhassa lady 321-326 Polyandry—Marriage ceremonies—Jealousy—Divorce—Identification of children—Courtship— LXV 327-333 Illegitimacy—Adultery Tibetan funerals—Disposal of their dead—By cremation—By water—Cannibalism—Strange beliefs LXVI 334-337 —Revolting barbarity—Drinking human blood—The saints of Tibet Another commotion—Two hundred soldiers—A stampede—Easy travelling—A long mani wall— LXVII 338-341 Mosquitoes Washing-day—A long march—Kiang and antelope—Benighted—The purchase of a goat— LXVIII 342-345 Ramifications of the Brahmaputra—A détour—Through a swamp—Mansing again lost and found The alarm given—Our bad manners—A peaceful settlement—A large river—Gigantic peak—Again LXIX 346-348 on marshy soil Another Tibetan encampment—Uncontrollable animals—A big stream—Washed away—In dreadful LXX suspense—Rescuing the yak—Diving at great altitudes and its effects—How my two followers got 349-351 across—A precarious outlook and a little comfort Hungry and worn—A sense of humour—Two buckets of milk—No food to be obtained—Chanden LXXI 352-354 Sing and Mansing in a wretched state—Their fidelity—Exhaustion Eighty black tents—Starved—Kindly natives—Presents—Ando and his promises—A Friendly Lama LXXII 355-357 —A low pass—My plans Strange noises—Ando the traitor—Purchasing provisions and ponies—A handsome pony— LXXIII 358-361 Decoyed away from my tent and rifles—Pounced upon—The fight—A prisoner Chanden Sing's plucky resistance—Mansing secured—A signal—A treacherous Lama— LXXIV Confiscation of baggage—Watches, compasses and aneroids—Fear and avidity—The air-cushion 362-366 —Dragged into the encampment A warning to my men—Calm and coolness—The Pombo's tent—Chanden Sing cross-examined and LXXV 367-369 flogged Led before the tribunal—The Pombo—Classical Tibetan beyond me—Chanden Sing lashed—The LXXVI 370-373 Lamas puzzled—A sudden change in the Pombo's attitude My note-books and maps—What the Lamas wanted me to say—My refusal—Anger and threats— LXXVII 374-376 Ando the traitor—Chanden Sing's heroism—A scene of cruelty—Rain A high military officer—A likely friend—A soldier and not a Lama—His sympathy—Facts about the LXXVIII 377-379 Tibetan army Sarcasm appreciated—Kindness—A change for the worse—The place for an Englishman—Vermin LXXIX 380-382 —A Tibetan prayer The Rupun as a friend—Treated with respect and deference—Fed by the Rupun and soldiers— LXXX 383-385 Improving my knowledge of Tibetan A bearer of bad news—Marched off to the mud-house—Mansing—Insults and humiliations—Iron LXXXI 386-389 handcuffs instead of ropes—The Rupun's sympathy—No more hope—In the hands of the mob A pitiful scene—A struggle to get to Chanden Sing—Brutally treated—A torturing saddle—Across LXXXII country at a gallop—A spirited pony—Sand deposits and hills—Speculation—More horsemen 390-392 coming towards us At an unpleasant pace—Drawing near the cavalcade—A picturesque sight—A shot fired at me— LXXXIII Terrible effects of the spikes along my spine—The rope breaks—An ill omen—A second shot 393-397 misses me—Arrows—The end of my terrible ride Intense pain—Hustled to the execution-ground—Stretched and tied—Thirsting for blood—A parade LXXXIV 398-401 of torturing appliances—The music—The Taram Bleeding all over—Insulted and spat upon—"Kill him!"—Urging on the executioner—Refusal to stoop LXXXV 402-405 —An unpleasant sword exercise—The execution suspended LXXXVI Mansing arrives—A pretence of killing him—Our execution postponed—Fed by the Lamas 406-407 Happiness checked—Stretched on the rack—Mansing shares my fate—Drenched and in rags—An LXXXVII 408-410 unsolved mystery Mansing partially untied after twelve hours on the rack—Numbed—How the brain works under such LXXXVIII circumstances—My scientific instruments—The end of my photographic plates—A paint-box 411-412 accused of occult powers—An offer refused—Courtesy and cruelty combined LXXXIX An unknown article in Tibet—My sponge bewitched—A Lama fires my Martini-Henry—The rifle bursts 413-415 A consultation—Untied from the rack—The most terrible twenty-four hours of my life—I lose the use of XC 416-417 my feet—Circulation returning—Intense pain—Sports XCI A great relief—The Pombo's attentions—A weird hypnotic dance 418-420 Compliments exchanged—A poisoned drink proffered—In acute pain—Uncertainty as to our fate— XCII 421-423 Working the oracle—My webbed fingers Our lives to be spared—An unpleasant march—Chanden Sing still alive—A sleepless night— XCIII 424-428 Towards the frontier—Long and painful marches—How we slept at night—A map drawn with blood South of the outward journey—Severity of our guard—Ventriloquism and its effects—Terrible but XCIV 429-430 instructive days—The Southern source of the Brahmaputra—Leaving Yutzang Easier times—Large encampments—Suffocating a goat—A Tarjum's encampment—Tokchim—Old XCV 431-434 friends—Musicians—Charity XCVI Towards Mansarowar—Mansing's vision—Bathing in Mansarowar 435-437 Suna—Wilson and the Political Peshkar across the frontier—A messenger—Our progress stopped —Diverting us over the Lumpiya Pass—Condemned to certain death—We attack our guard— XCVII 438-444 Lapsang and the Jong Pen's private secretary—A document—Nearing Kardam—Retracing our steps—Dogmar A Commotion—The arrival of an army—Elected General-in-chief—How we were to slaughter the XCVIII Jong Pen's soldiers—My men lay down their arms—Towards Taklakot—Delaling and Sibling— 445-449 Taklakot at last Free at last—Among friends—Forgetting our past troubles—Confiscated baggage returned—A XCIX scene with Nerba—Suna's message delivered—How our release was brought about—Across the 450-456 frontier—Photography at Gungi Civilisation once more—Paralysis—The Tinker Pass in Nepal—Kindly natives—Mr. Larkin— C Government Inquiry—Back to Tibet—Final good-bye to the Forbidden Land—The return journey— 457-470 Farewell to Mansing—Home again APPENDIX 471-501 INDEX 503-508 HEINEMANN PUBLICATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS Ad 1