Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833
121 Pages
English

Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833

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The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833, by John Auldjo This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833 Author: John Auldjo Release Date: December 10, 2008 [eBook #27484] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833*** E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) Transcriber's note: Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of some of these names are given at the end of the book. JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, &c. &c. "You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection." GRAY's Letters. LONDON : Printed by A. S POTTISWOODE, New-Street-Square. JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS, IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833. BY JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S. AUTHOR OF "THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC," "SKETCHES OF VESUVIUS," ETC. Drawn by Sir W. Gell VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.] LONDON: LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1835. TO SIR WILLIAM GELL. D EAR SIR, ON quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown. Your faithful and obedient servant, THE AUTHOR. Naples, April, 1835. PREFACE. The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted. The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures. With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake. While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained. Naples, April, 1835. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Departure of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene My first Night at Sea Sunday on Board Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius Scylla and Charybdis. Homer The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Man overboard. Life Buoy Cerigo. Taygetus Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam Nauplia de Malvoisie Classic Reminiscences. Argos Sharks. Greek Costume Character of King Otho Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove English Residents at Athens Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses Insolence of the Turks Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus Metropolis of modern Greece Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers The Caique. Turkish Boatmen Paras. Splendid Fountain. Pera. Destructive Fire. Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the Funeral of a Russian Soldier 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 Landing of the British Ambassador Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces Value of the Turkish Pipe Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar Jewellery. Broussa Silks Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician Lord Ponsonby's Audience His Reception. Count Orloff Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments Cricket. Turkish Fleet Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters" Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries Palace. Turkish Horses Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek The Erraba. Turkish Ladies Dancing Dervishes Greek Bookseller Mosque of Solimanie Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar Hippodrome The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground Sultan's Visit to the Mosque Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote New Regulation Soldier 53 54 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 73 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 Palace of the British Embassy Scene in the Arm Bazaar George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper Jew Brokers. Actæon Humours of a Turkish Auction Slave Market A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman Oriental Costume Turks. Armenians. Greeks Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character Oriental Politeness. Portraits Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses Hummums Eastern Story-teller Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul Naval Banquet Seven Towers Tomb of Ali Pasha Russian Insolence Visit to Ibrahim Pasha Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman Laughable Anecdote of a Turk Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks The Muezzin Madame Mauvromati. The Plague Massacre of the Greeks Anecdote of the Sultan Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks Greek Lady. Elegant Costume Affability of the Turkish Females The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier Foreign Visiters Oriental Beauty The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey Morning Prayer. The Muezzin 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 121 122 128 131 134 136 137 138 139 141 144 146 147 148 151 152 153 156 157 159 160 162 163 Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby Russian Insolence to an English Party Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio The Symplegades Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper Grand Review. Splendid Staff Giant's Mountain Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus Prince Butera and the Sultan Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince Royal Country Seat Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople My fellow-Passengers Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora Greek Deputation. Anecdote Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna French Squadron. King of Greece Smyrna. Excessive Heat Departure for Syra Accident. Island of Scio Island of Tinos. Quarantine Landing of the King. Ship Launch Festival of St. John the Baptist Syra. Bishop's Palace Ladies of Mycone. Costume Delos. Vulgar Tourists Modern Antique Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage Visit to Antiparos Marine Prospects. Spotico Entrance to the Cavern Perilous Descent Melodramatic Scene Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 174 175 177 178 180 181 182 183 189 190 192 193 194 196 199 200 201 202 203 204 206 208 209 210 211 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 224 226 Splendid Transition Dimensions of the Grotto Terrified Frenchman. Our Return A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene Port of Milo Warlike Mountaineers Anecdote Parting of the Royal Brothers Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante Distant View of Etna. Valetta Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine The Parlatorio Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu Valetta. Maltese Gazette Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti Temple of Hercules. Concord Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves Duchess de Berri Scene on Board Capri. Conclusion Addenda. List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy State of the Thermometer at Constantinople Note to page 24 227 228 229 231 232 233 234 235 236 238 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 250 251 252 253 254 256 257 258 259 1 JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, ETC. Saturday, 6th April, 1833.—Well! All seems at length arranged, and DEPARTURE OF THE the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actæon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens. The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the 2 evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell. The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"—all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets "In every port a true love find." OF THE ACTÆON. Reflections akin to these, probably, may have tortured more than one of the fair spectators; and mamma, perhaps, considered it extremely mortifying that an opportunity was not given to land the prize, as well a s hook it; and that sailors, like jacks, were exceedingly difficult to catch. Boats pass rapidly to and from the ship;—the yards are manned; the ambassador's flag flies at the main; and as the smoke from the salute cleared away, the shore, with its precious and weeping burthen, was seen fast receding from the sight. The Actæon had actually sailed; 3 and the white handkerchiefs, with the ivory arms that waved them, gradually became lost to the view, till distance mingled the entire scene into one grey mass, and "All was mist, and Naples seen no more." Such were the transactions that marked the 6th of April, 1833, when I became one of the ship's company, and received an honourable place in her log. We were compelled to pass close under Capri 1, and its bold perpendicular cliffs towered magnificently above us, casting a deep shadow over the vessel as she sailed along. There was little wind outside the isle, and we were nearly becalmed; but this delay was amply compensated by the extreme beauty of the night. The brilliant moon, shining with far greater lustre than I ever remember to have witnessed, during the height of summer, in less favoured climes, lighted up with its silver beams the whole of that beautiful coast 4 extending along the bay of Salerno, from Amalfi to Palinuro. Long did I remain upon deck, gazing on "Heaven's ebon vault, Studded with stars unutterably bright; Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls." ISLAND OF CAPRI.