The Project GtuneebgrE oBkoo Rof ngvias Eant oR dgnivseW b ,tV. Ly E. #2 ucasrus nio sybreeiLu. .V EyropsCcawal thgihc era sllo ev rnaiggna d. Be suthe worl kce ehtt erhc olat fwspycoghrirt yocnuuo rroy oadiownlre dbefotubirtsider rogny anr oisthg inbnet greooBehT.kheotPrr ecojGut b eht eifsr thtis header shouldht gniweejorP sienseg invin he welsa.eP n to eodutenct G filbergr oitedchotgean .tin oDmer evoten permout writed riwhtt ehh aesml gale "he tader esaelP.noissiatioformr inothena d,t "rpnila lg ernbte bhe tatfo mottolifsiht out n abeBoothe drP kna tuGjoceontibo a yutr oucepscifigir sthe. Included is ipmroattni fnroamoY .desu eb yam ondfisoaln cau oisnirtcertsna dfilethe how in G tcnetuP otejorhod tow rgbean, h wot otua obtuonation make a dnv iet gd.veolr, t, Si arehereY"sectle ied ronolecilli".ytrt nuqnaorld."—Dometan wNO".oMit.RJ HOSN wantiishr Che thaM eht dna dlro of ects obj twog.,.,ye sotiucir
Produced by Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
[Illustration: TWO MEN ADMIRING FUJI FROM A WINDOW From Hokusai's "A Hundred Views of Fuji"]
ROVING EAST AND ROVINGWEST
SDOWW—ROv(reTR Harlyy ne
Title: Roving East and Roving West Author: E.V. Lucas Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7237] [Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] [This file was first posted on March 30, 2003] Edition: 10 Language: English
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROVING EAST AND ROVING WEST ***
E. V. LUCAS TO E. L. L. MYHOST AT RAISINA
BY
).
**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** **eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** *****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
CONTENTS
INDIA
NOISELESS FEET THESAHIB THEPASSINGSHOW INDIA'S BIRDS THETOWERS OFSILENCETHEGARLANDS DELHI A DAY'S HAWKINGNEW, OR IMPERIAL, DELHI THEDIVERS THEROPETRICK AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI LUCKNOW A TIGER THESACRED CITYCALCUTTA ROSEAYLMER JOB AND JOEEXIT
JAPAN
INTRODUCTORYTHELITTLELAND THERICEFIELDS SURFACEMATERIALISM FIRST GLIMPSEOFFUJI TWO FUNERALS THELITTLEGEISHA MANNERS THEPLAYMYANOSHITA FUJI
AMERICA
DEMOCRACYAT HOMESAN FRANCISCO ROADS GOOD AND BAD UNIVERSITIES, LOVEAND PRONUNCIATION FIRST SIGNS OFPROHIBITION R. L. S. STORIES AND HUMORISTS THE CARS CHICAGO THE MOVIES THE AMERICAN FACE PROHIBITION AGAIN THE BALL GAME SKY SCRAPERS A PLEA FOR THE AQUARIUM ENGLISH AND FRENCH INFLUENCES SKY-SIGNS AND CONEY ISLAND THE PRESS TREASURES OF ART MOUNT VERNON VERS LIBRE DOMESTIC ARCHITECTUREBOSTON PHILADELPHIA GENERAL REFLECTIONS
INDEX
INDIA
NOISELESS FEET
Although India is a land of walkers, there is no sound of footfalls. Most of the feet are bare and all are silent: dark strangers overtake one like ghosts. Both in the cities and the country some one is always walking. There are carts and motorcars, and on the roads about Delhi a curious service of camel omnibuses, but most of the people walk, and they walk ever. In the bazaars they walk in their thousands; on the long, dusty roads, miles from anywhere, there are always a few, approaching or receding. It is odd that the only occasion on which Indians break from their walk into a run or a trot is when they are bearers at a funeral, or have an unusually heavy head-load, or carry a piano. Why there is so much piano- carrying in Calcutta I cannot say, but the streets (as I feel now) have no commoner spectacle than six or eight merry, half-naked fellows, trotting along, laughing and jesting under their burden, all with an odd, swinging movement of the arms. One of one's earliest impressions of the Indians is that their hands are inadequate. They suggest no power. Not only is there always some one walking, but there is always some one resting. They repose at full length wherever the need for sleep takes them; or they sit with pointed knees. Coming from England one is struck by so much inertness; for though the English labourer can be lazy enough he usually rests on his feet, leaning against walls: if he is a land labourer, leaning with his back to the support; if he follows the sea, leaning on his stomach. It was interesting to pass on from India and its prostrate philosophers with their infinite capacity for taking naps, to Japan, where there seems to be neither time nor space for idlers. Whereas in India one has continually to turn aside in order not to step upon a sleeping figure— the footpath being a favourite dormitory—in Japan no one is ever doing nothing, and no one appears to be weary or poor. India, save for a few native politicians and agitators, strikes one as a land destitute of ambition. In the cities there are infrequent signs of progress; in the country none. The peasants support life on as little as they can, they rest as much as possible and their carts and implements are prehistoric. They may believe in their gods, but fatalism is their true religion. How little they can be affected by civilisation I learned from a tiny settlement of bush-dwellers not twenty miles from Bombay, close to that beautiful lake which has been transformed into a reservoir, where bows and arrows are still the only weapons and rats are a staple food. And in an hour's time, in a car, one could be telephoning one's friends or watching a cinema!
THE SAHIB
I did not have to wait to reach India for that great and exciting moment when one is first called "Sahib." I was addressed as "Sahib," to my mingled pride and confusion, at Marseilles, by an attendant on the steamer which I joined there. Later I grew accustomed to it, although never, I hope, blasé; but to the end my bearer fascinated me by alluding to me as Master —not directly, but obliquely: impersonally, as though it were some other person that I knew, who was always with me, an alter egodid Master wish to be called?"who could not answer for himself: "Would Master like this or that?" "At what time
And then the beautiful "Salaam"!
I was sorry for the English doomed to become so used to Eastern deference that they cease to be thrilled.
say is tl I can w eeska ahstvener eaf ofn io wtoyas lA .ac Itonnre tt moel ie fezaaaehb nit ah n Ah.ugno eot nreno seod reven dnisnot ah tehi sat anexhibition—irb v fetisiot ,os lthe ime esprolgnoH wateki tr ths foelusis dces a ni fo noitd'rlWoa . irFas tI si a ylno gniyap newhy lliaecsp ea,nIidt ognretsarr a t foiculdiffesticin iand Iin.secalp hcus on the rve obse To abazht eo filef aly bnd carselodevr si nu eesbompossiblalmost idlb exe.etIw uo ed éfaCi xiaPals,riPan ns ior f—ehwatcnno ere esit may ase at e dnactawht how eerndl fuanchnggis eptccaelg iogn past. Thereare eem yhtenbdhget heiursef cois oeno tahW .sllatse thd ans ntharciotna—ynnaategp is any v misses ta ehtc a riahmbsengliinthreg inct isnt aessaeher,rw menem vod keac pstcod aninamuhdnos si ytrse, and where tmusea ers oidevhe txh eitibn ios ehegguoitsfo ndealthe the ers— yelomen serdnrechtaded meom cedtemlaicr fo sdohching the curiouls yelsirule ynaerevit cI y unfoym dflesdna taw vi en tat ehobtuwhat in tersquarit reven saw I tgainftri dofd reiwhtuo t.hE ev ninformansuch an a ,gt dnl a nivio srtfot;hand anam sihtrof did adherefot ha ws;not ei dniudehH markhre gnifs si ehtffidnereco todybway ws:t haoha dnw ah tverete and be told was cofæ tinumie htlla nrael dna ian,Anglndo-or Iai nI-dngnoldeA in- rmfoe omllweisebs edeht ,erg to sitterestinrali ynirtoadrniosrpofe xh eitib gniiructiso I.ypicked up a few dosda dne dn sfopp aho wy tlenarlpme era yb deyostabtheementlisht ehf ro eups lotelpiw esi nmoc w fetcwaoutha t tctaro,sfhlus ep youths, usuallysi ssenevitisiuqbuo taltienss e eaE nhtssi isenctioansaNotrst. ebo evsratffde ,heshops seem to fo tted ehcani dleun asseln enemeg;dl-gew oht ehailohe trossrs cnaegap st llA .tbira Alehtig Nanle jewel desirabehilttellu lfot iner tg;s thmmhaevliimsrt ;ss ehe pe; thches couehrinot ni glcni fmsal pirhe tthiw stnahcrem lray the cow. As fo rhtsid viniti,yngvire curat te;H ehudnihc slfeiled. kil Jai Thero esnda yilvere tngriduhtig nhesum tub eb ton th poni gni geh,rtity or for sanc see ehto dns en tbychousspas-erewereh yhgt htuor, ar het fobuiluoba stfird ehs s aesticie tht ht eub ecollac kt oumbBo, ayerwhlurayli nna dbaable, and particot ylno eciton os, itylir,veweho nestriaqeau xniessia blA ceng. om By,bapphainy a si oslgip noee sacredivers.Th mih srditnof orraecexd ans owbl tub elttil gniveceiockrbullthe om—nc mo sostri sle tht ha shtigtfo gnivmahoM ehn's medar liuppet o psieva eromnf imaorontiby, ged seerub ,no tly the more obviuo:ss cu hsat ahera sdraebdeyd-d tatthd orec r ah vaersrw aeehriilgrhe pde te manemiot ti yndepmaner ocehe ttt uemo flA fht eant the relah; tha fvehto f ylnea vent pre dea thehs saw IaJ a nwohainn i. ontilahttat ehr seiparimage to Mecca; ht yaJ e sniotsir toteofwon brning tain conholeca h,de r aot ehe erthd leawcrd ah hcihw esuol aing a pily emptyc rafeluniw monat nitoinol h ies doohtiw ecew foody he busetbecatr h donrueisib s ntoi phe tne o ,ssapmoc eht forned toworth, tuac .hT erasdM cewih tthd anutsot tan ehh eh daeccdiehO ,le neatiallspec comy ifh sudniHg on evaIns.vera tiand Icu kybt eha sbnece of any out-of gnimorfarF ecn Iasid dis, tr shtiw era nem teetr she tIn. enomdnw nea nem teewionbmmunr co-doonam rppa seya sahe t eir lenerowoMtsw mow mone .men with men, wounyod anise ong hoM a si nademman th wheman e wose ,aohcuohglahthe tei v Tl.reheg kccnalrhtehguo of a bright blao tfnec nocsoisu cedioopei b fngyad nol ylsulla visitedg; and IH niuds t ehera d leal,cryuactanelopirehgniP ehtkindery r ev, foH molaa—namio ffo eseR ro tysA m—luerwheve penraai hodsga erf ed andprotected.ot saw Iylrae dlrtcef ointhn aienm sgo on tsu tsuchdo: salu as w ihhci tfh na,dh the leting witt foapeh elb enoonshraouths die ,hwluylrafegnc ainirefrand ir, t morf ,euqsom r olemptea n ien at all, becauseuohcni gnatyihgn terouot ichtos rof na ebnuveilld as tothatlso ceard se Iawet .waale avesiv gysmahoM a rg nademewing byl-nut cho febett eha trteucind iastrnshguow I evE ht n it. foriterhewhylt ametluitra eh ettet ha tbtoud on si ereht tuelsana tahib,tb ll. It is an unpvap nemena taw donmspl sheasons a dnvasec iromerrollthe p leed-unev erom fo srodthy baome are erlg hspmi.yticuS amexe,pl, esr fo siwhta ranitno perplex certainht nopu kool ,esheotf oesncdae so tecM.irnexeepuppo I sons,natithnyg,in c Ildouton dne eru ehtm whom I would wliilgnyll aenra e am fdecrhe tinif tekciorf ,dleIndi an entlan go fmena-diwowlrhi tasandiIne th sesirprus dna se onshamand int tsar fertno sawceinan) aar sndt gnW eh os irudo offendothing sY ro.kN dniN wera ew tatsucca efeaff othn ioctoLdnna domerno( to iomedris n Paildn ,gnhton gnis i pnoliubfoc redomsnrttaoisnlike the familia erahwreevyraie;s wi jawvinge moirt eciuj der ht Bint bu; nglicklane tniro erpvethan els Bombay enOseesehwe .ererovnd It il al viedian seew.Itotm em dtat ehtwihe chethf ong-leteb em si tun our part, and i naJap n Ielraenthd tat Jheanap eserahsht enI e shaut Ilwayll aai nI dn.cB umis, ar emyhe tanthtpecca e ot elba or receding, snna,ta pporcaihgndsunf oe thstdimersebmeht ros emso ahinm cetocihypndd, he oto t yletelpmoc debmcuuc s Id,an her ,rom ro eavirde are morto whichemin stnccaeapmohaisth, thf Gee eht ot na hcnuPaly uddJntmereludo;ym lei ta dnrelahas shiptiont ya tahas Iym wir f fstirakan, o fuo rhclihdood.It was in Bomb at,ea hhe tghou si netfoos ti ss' prmer chaake-t rhaedr,gh piniha tist rdwaar epyt lacidnI s'aiys in Caon SundaoTm ynicltuat .iassBan etllPe. deroa moht tuR e the Russian BalsrnolaylI a oderau Nhe tryveh tctub ,teldnuof I onces at lon toogiiuf tatIi gn .m ehmevo acit fon ierAms aadIhS ahekf S ihmmein as theent knowneirO elihw ,mraalh it wmed leilyab silpt doonnwen ke be havtalsgithb eomere tnertaining. That luowon dh ,tvewo, erprime ove thlad cautgn ,naichichin wasdi I wtnioppasJ nI .deon, anapth ohe to monotog and to t Iaderonsu ,ubift ne oay sha tolloht wuoc f dlhe aof trds e woosgnni gapynccmoioatlltianrc os,m tluser eht ,sndna sehsaeb saw p angtif oceie
THE PASSING SHOW
he tinn Tt.as Ea evah uam yloh dustith d yo, an dlaaeerrew lvon oiotclanh,smd dekevasrof l a uch a hybrid, naS ah.wI amigens a htiw etihw saw, edrvseobuny llitacrpcana den dnceruncoent avemdworp det gnc ehwas loya oedhin hw oapssf kari ,son Roadhe Harriocfnt oymf ri m impirstion.ressi seiresneewtebnI t ha tleabs wal sa.tT eherh da been so long a ni draH osiroR n, adlcCatautmy, stoi Told ofblenandrB reM .ra dnatre cgeantreses a elbmeser seru when sae safely tla lhtiygnt ah, owerth c I nanrenesilarofeg ,e