Coco Chanel, Revue de presse

Coco Chanel, Revue de presse

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COCO CHANEL No. 5 © Stop Traffic Designs Table of Contents 2 1 2 3 4 5 Earl Y StrugglES FamEYouth & SuccESS comEback InFluEncE Chanel blossoms An orphan dressed A milliner becomes A style rebirth occurs Coco Chanel from ‘poor chic’ in black comes of “Coco”, the singer against all odds. lives on in brand that to haute couture age in a convent. and boutique owner. exemplifies elegance celebrity. & excellence. © Stop Traffic Designs little black dress, 1926 © Stop Traffic Designs © Stop Traffic Designs Coco in her youth1 coco chanel, born raised by Aubazine nuns. France, was still in the middle Gabrielle Chanel on August While she spent tremendous ages.... 19th, 1883, in Saumur, efforts throughout her life to France, would not only conceal the secrets of her ...but the twentieth become one of the most youth, she owed much of century was knocking innovative fashion designers her initial craft to the convent at her door. of her time, but also one of she was raised in. She was the most influential women made to wear all black by of the 20th Century. the nuns while she learned to master the art of sewing. In true rags to riches fashion, Chanel came In those solace walls from humble beginnings. she plied her needle and After her mother died when learned the ways of silence: Chanel was very young, austerity, good manners and her father left her to be poise.

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Published 22 January 2013
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COCO CHANEL
No. 5
© Stop Traffic Designs
2 1
Youth
An orphan dressed in black comes of age in a convent.
2
EarlY StrugglES & SuccESS
A milliner becomes “Coco”, the singer and boutique owner.
Table of Contents
3
FamE
Chanel blossoms from ‘poor chic’ to haute couture celebrity.
4
comEback
A style rebirth occurs against all odds.
5
InFluEncE
Coco Chanel lives on in brand that exemplifies elegance & excellence.
© Stop Traffic Designs
little black dress, 1926
© Stop Traffic Designs
© Stop Traffic Designs
cGOaCbrOielcleHChanel on A1ugust While she spent tremendous ages.... Coco in her youth àNeLraised by Aubazine nuns. , born France, was still in the middle 19th, 1883, in Saumur, efforts throughout her life to France, would not only conceal the secrets of her...but the twentiethbecome one of the most youth, she owed much ofcentury was knocking innovative fashion designers her initial craft to the conventat her door. of her time, but also one of she was raised in. She was the most influential women made to wear all black by of the 20th Century. the nuns while she learned to master the art of sewing. IN TRUe RàGs TO RiCHes fàsHiON,Chanel cameIN THOse sOLàCe wàLLs from humble beginnings. she plied her needle and After her mother died when learned the ways of silence: Chanel was very young, austerity, good manners and her father left her to be poise. Aubazine in Corrèze,
© Stop Traffic Designs
6
2
hat sketch, 1912
EarlyStruggles&  Success
cHàNeL LefT THe CONveNT and became a milliner in Moulins, a garrison town. She would also sing in bars know ascafe-concerts, where she became known as “Coco”. She gained a name for herself as well as several admirers.
SHe MOved TO THe esTàTe of Etienne Balsan, one of her admirers, who was an equestrian enthusiast. Chanel flourished in his environment and met
several influential people during this time. One of them, Boy Chapel, became her friend, financial backer and eventually her lover. He immediately recognized her hat making talent and became her biggest advocate to start her own business.
SHe sTàRTed By TRàNsfORMiNG her apartment into a studio, begging her girlfriends to wear her creations as a favor. Her “sailor inspired” sports
wear was initially looked down upon, but soon her simple tailored outfits were adopted by Parisian women. Chanel had invented a sports style for women. In 1913, she opens her first boutique, “Gabrielle Chanel” in Deauville that featured jersey clothes. These clothes not only revolutionized the way women felt about their bodies, but their very lifestyles.
It was an instant success...
© Stop Traffic Designs
hat sketch, 1916
cOCO wiTH fRieNd iN fRONT Of HeRfiRsT BOUTiqUe iN DeàUviLLe.
bOy cHàpeL àNd cOCO cHàNeL iN 1912.
gàBRieLLe DORizàT iN àcHàNeL HàT, spRiNG BOàRded cOCO’s eàRLy sUCCess.
“To be irreplaceable, you have to be different.”
deauville, 1913
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© Stop Traffic Designs
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sports costume, 1924
classic chanel, 1923
chanel’s vogue debut, 1920
3
chanel’s layered suit, 1933
black silk evening dress, 1930
Fame
© Stop Traffic Designs
Fame
gLORià SwàNsON iN cHàNeLWàRdROBe fORNight or Never.
bOàR HUNTiNG wiTHWiNsTON cHURCHiLL.
IN 1915, cHàNeL OpeNs HeR fiRsT COUTURe HOUsein Biarritz. Her fame is beginning to skyrocket. She confirms her style of natural seduction. Her flowing comfortable designs allows ease of movement and rejects the stuffy ostentatious style of the 19th Centur y. In 1921, she opens what would become the famous showroom at Rue Cambon and launches her first fragrance,Channel No. 5.
cHàNeL deveLOps àN iNTeNse àMOUNT Of fàsHiON iNNOvàTiONsat this time. She is designing fashion for plays and film, costume jewelry and the ‘little black dress’, which AmericanVoguedeclares as the ‘new uniform for the modern woman’. She launches the reign of the super model and at the height of her success employs 4,000 workers.
tHe fàsHiONisTà wàs àLsO à MàRKeTiNG GeNiUsbefore her time. Chanel’s image and fame belonged to her logo (not yet called this): The letters, the typography, the gold, the black and the white; the use of repetition, which anticipated Pop Art; the perfecting of a grammar and vocabular y which belonged to her alone and her intense femininity with a total lack of sentimentality made her one of the chosen few who shaped an entire era when ever ything was being reinvented.
FiRsT làdy, JàCqUeLiNekeNNedy, iN cHàNeL.
beTweeN SàLvàdOR DàLiàNd cHRisTiàN béRàRd.
màRiLyN mONROe’s fàMOUs àdfOR cHàNeL nO. 5
9
© Stop Traffic Designs
10 4coco chanel on the eve of her comeback, 1954
Comeback © Stop Traffic Designs
cHàNeL’s eLàBORàTe BROOCHes Màde COsTUMe jeweLRy àN iNTeGRàL pàRT Of fàsHiON.
afTeR THe deàTH Of à seCONd LOveR, Chanel closed her fashion house in 1939. She retired. Considered a has-been by her rivals, Chanel emerged from retirement in 1954 at the age of 71. Her first attempt led only to an icy reception. To try her luck a second
cLàssiC TwO-TONe sHOe THàT CReàTed àN OpTiCàL iLLUsiON Of à sMàLLeR fOOT.
required a great deal of self assurance, as her fragrance empire was on the line.
YeT cHàNeL ReiNveNTed sTyLe àGàiN:Soft jackets with no interlining, wonderfully
managed sleeves, silk blouses, gold chains, wrap-over skirts, quilted shoulder bags leaving hands free, flatshoes with a bar across and a black toe to shorten the foot and jewel-like buttons that cascaded down the front of the garment. The ‘Chanel Look’swept across
cHàNeL’s CLàssiC HàNd BàGBeCOMes à sTàpLe Of HeR COLLeCTiON.
the Atlantic and reigned again. In 1957 she is awarded a fashion oscar for being ‘the most influential female designer of the twentieth century’.
“Failed innovation is painful. A revival of it is sinful. ”
pink tweed suit, 1954
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1
© Stop Traffic Designs